What are the Model Train Scales

There are many different scales or gauges of Model Trains. They all have their pros and cons.  There are 2 main differences.  The first and most obvious would be the size or ratio of difference between the real life train and its model.  An HO scale locomotive is 87 times smaller than its real life counterpart or said conversely the real life steam locomotive is 87 times bigger than its HO scale model.  The second main difference would be availability of product sold commercially.  The more product out there on the market the less expensive the hobby overall could be. The more product available the less you have to scratch build from raw materials etc, etc.

Today's most popular model train scales. There are others but these are the heavy hitters.

Name    Size
G Scale  1:32
O Scale  1:48
On30 Scale 1:48 (O Scale running on HO track)
S Scale   1:64
HO Scale  1:87
N Scale 1:148
Z Scale 1:220

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How to buy trains on EBay

One cold Sunday afternoon years ago I was walking out of a Model Train Show (flea market) in Dover, NJ with my father and we were passing some of the vendors’ vehicles in the parking lot on the way to our car. This was before EBay was a household name. One of their vans had a bumper sticker that read “He who dies with the most trains wins!” There isn’t one model train enthusiast that wouldn’t get a chuckle out of that. If it’s your goal to fulfill the mantra of that bumper sticker or if you are looking for that weird out of production piece or heck even something brand new to the market EBay is a great resource. My father proclaims that EBay killed the local train show (and has a lecture stating so ready at a moment’s notice). He might very well be right. Fact is the online marketplace isn’t going anywhere so I figured I would share some of my tricks with you-and I won’t tell him if you won’t.

You need to have an EBay and PayPal account, and since you found us here at Model Trains and Things I am going to assume you are internet friendly and will leave out all the basic keystrokes.

Let’s start with an example of an item you are looking for to complete a collection, a proto 2000 Lehigh Valley fa2 locomotive. The first step is to put that exact, long phrase into the search box. It is a very specific search term. If you see anything resembling what you like, note the item numbers or add the items to your watch list. You can go to your watch list later and compare. EBay also now has a shopping cart where you can put all the items you like and compare later. This first salvo using the most descriptive item search only takes care of items listed for sale properly. Most people stop here. That would be a HUGE mistake that might cost you hundreds or thousands of dollars over time.

Now the fun begins. This is where simply buying a train on ebay becomes an art form. Now you begin to start searching for items that are really a proto 2000 Lehigh Valley fa2 locomotive, but that have been listed improperly or without all the specifics like the road name or proper manufacture name etc. What you have to remember is not everybody selling trains even knows what they are. They may have inherited the stuff or got them in an estate sale or grabbed some from Tony at the diner who knows? Even if they are a train guy they may not be great EBayers. So you can’t count on them for describing the item perfectly or completely or even spelling the name right. I have found some real gems that were mal described in one fashion or another. Think about it if they aren’t described properly or with a lot of detail then how is someone finding it…luck and patients. So if it gets less traffic then you can win it at a cheaper bid price.

Using our example I would then search for proto 2000 fa2, then Lehigh valley fa2, then proto fa2, then proto 2000, then proto Lehigh Valley, then Lehigh valley locomotive etc. Start very specific then get more general with your searches. I always end up going 4-6 searches deep before giving up.

Now that you have found a bunch of listings for what you want to buy you have to start comparing. There are 2 basic ways people list items “buy it now” which is a one price take it or leave it or the typical auction. Honestly these days the gig is up on the auction listings and usually if a few people are bidding on an item it will go right up to the average selling price or above. If no one is paying attention or if the item isn’t easily found you might be able to get it at the starting bid price.

When you compare items make sure you can distinctly tell its condition. If it’s anything but new in the box stuff you want them to describe the item’s faults and show you them in the pictures. This way you can accurately figure the value of the item. Do not be afraid to ask the seller questions. You will want to note the sellers return policy if any and what their feedback score is. Don’t forget that shipping plays a huge part in the overall cost of the item.

Now that you are armed with a few of my tricks have at it. Add that hard to find out of production locomotive to your fleet at a low or below average price tag. If you are ever looking to sell any of your model trains (which I know is a sore subject around train guys) keep in mind all of my buying tips and your item will more than likely sell at an average or above number. Either way make sure you don’t tell my father about it or else be prepared for a stern talking to.

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How to Solder connections on your Train Layout

People hear the word solder and many of them cringe with fear others think you need to be some long bearded wizzard or summoner of spirts to solder 2 wires together.  It's actually not a hard skill to pick up. With a little practice you can be an expert well at least good enough to work on your model train layout.

First you need to make sure you have a high enough wattage soldering gun to do the job. Honestly unless you are soldering fine circuit board components go with a 200+ watt gun 250ish sounds nice to me. 

Second Get a few replacement tips.  The tips on a soldering gun are replaceable. Over time the tip wears away from working. You can usually buy different sizes to fit your gun and soldering job, smaller for finer work and larger for most applications. Get a variety to try out. 

Quick tip...Realize it takes a bit of time for the gun to heat up, for your joint to heat up, and for all items to cool down.

Third you need a roll of solder.  Go for a Rosin Core roll. They usually come in different gauge get a couple and try a few out.  Finer projects to better with a finer gauge solder.
Fourth you need a soldering project.  In the model train layout world your top 3 soldering tasks will be soldering wire to wire connections, rail joints, and wires on to the track for power connections.  As you get more advanced and start working with a control panel or toggle switches you can add those finer jobs the list.

If you are a first timer for every scenario I would take some scrap pieces and try your technique until you are comfortable. This way you don’t make any mistakes to the real thing. The good news is if you don’t like the way a solder joint looks you can usually heat it back up and disconnect the items and start all over.

Wire to wire connections. If you can twist the ends of the wires you wish to connect together then I suggest doing it so that you do not need to hold the wires while soldering. Some jobs will not allow that to happen. In that case you have to use some sort of alligator clip, clothes pin type device to keep your wires close together. One of your hands needs to hold the gun and the other the solder so it makes it tough (not impossible) to hold the wires at the same time. Heat the gun up first until the tip easily melts your rosin core solder. Before you start to solder anything melt a little solder on to the gun’s tip. It helps conduct the heat to the application. Apply heat to the bare wires first to get their temperature up. Then slowly apply the solder if it doesn’t start to melt immediately remove it and wait a few more seconds for the area to heat up. When it’s ready it will slowly start to melt and you will see the wires soak in the solder like a sponge. If they don’t then they were not hot enough.  Don’t glop the solder on it should flow nicely.  Once soaked into the wires you’re done.  The smaller the gauge of the wire the quicker this all happens.



Rail Joints. Remove any plastic ties right at the joint they may end up melting from the heat. You can reinstall them later. Apply the heat to one side of the rail and the solder to the other. Once everything is up to temp the solder will soak into the rail joint and be drawn toward the heat.  Less is more. While the joint is still warm you can hit it with a sanding block to clean it up a bit. If you lay in too much solder you may find yourself having to file down your solder joint.



Tinned Wire



Wire to rail. In this case it works like a hybrid of the two situations above. I would first “tin” the wire. Heat it up and apply a small coat of solder to the wire first. Then I would tin the area on the rail where you intend to place the wire. I find that it works best to attach power wires at rail joints. Now that both the rail and the wire is tinned apply heat to the rail when the solder starts to melt touch the tinned wire to the spot and it should rather quickly melt as well, at that point you are done, but you have to hold the wire in place long enough for the solder to cool. This could be tricky and hot to the touch.  Practice makes perfect.

Quick Tip...The rules of gravity apply to solder it can drip off the solder joint like water from a faucet. Don't get caught underneath it!

Heat Sink Tweezers

In all cases make sure you are in a comfortable position. Make sure that you are not under the soldering joint because sometimes hot solder tends to drip from the area. Make sure you are applying enough heat to the joint without destroying your surroundings (melting plastic ties or the insulation on the wire). In some cases you will want to use some sort of heat sink to stop the heat from traveling up your wire or rail beyond a certain point. An alligator clip will work as a heat sink or you could pick up a few heat sink tweezers to do the job. A quick tug after the joint has cooled should not be enough to seperate it.  If it did you didn't get the right flow, do it again.  Remember your joint and gun will remain hot well after your job is done.

Give it a shot, stop your cringing. You now have the basics needed to start soldering rail joints, and power connections on your model train layout.  Practice practice practice, the more soldering joints you tackle the better at it you will become. See it wasn’t that hard.

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Model Train Layout Mountains & Terrain

Track plan designed, Benchwork is Built, Your subroadbed and Track is installed. You have quite a few hours of running time behind you and your trains run on your railroad without derailing. You have done a fantastic job.  Now it's time to figure out how your model train layout's terrain is going to rise and fall as it twists and turns around your trackplan.

I like to "sort of" plan this out. When I design my track plan I only figure in a few key or signature elements like the highest and lowest points, where a major tunnel will be, or the biggest mountain etc etc. I like to leave the rest as sort of a - on the spot decision. You could call it the Bob Ross method " I think a happy little mountain lives here."  You need to start with those signature, major spots that you preplanned out first. Then tailor the rest to your liking. F9QKKU9UKBZY

How do you make a mountain in the first place? (a valley or dip in the terrain is made the same way just opposite elevation) There are 2 main construction techniques. The traditional ridged frame and apron approach vs the foam board or light weight mountain method (using foam board insulation glued together to create the height or carved out for a valley).



Cardboard Strip Apron



Wire Mesh Apron

 In the traditional ridged frame way of constructing mountains you first mark out your peaks or bluffs with some sort of ridged frame. You would also want to declare where any railroad or auto tunnels would be located and build them in. You could used 1x2 wood jutting up from your benchwork, or fixed to the wall. Then you could connect some horizontal pieces if needed between your vertical supports. For a very large mountain on my fathers O scale model train layout we used electrical conduit pipe and bent it, using the proper bender, as needed to get the contours we wanted. Once the framework of the mountain is in place then you need to give it an apron. The first method of creating an apron is using cardboard strips and "basket weaving" an apron that you staple to your mountain's frame. The second method is using wire mesh or screen that you again staple to the framework. The apron should then fall between your highest points and look like a real life mountain. Sometimes it takes some prodding and pulling to get the look you want, but it will happen. Then take your plaster cloth or paper towels soaked in plaster and drape them over your apron.

The lightweight method is completely different. simply stack up enough foam insulation board to get the height gluing the pieces together with a LOW temp hot glue gun.(regular guns melt the foam) Then carve your peaks, bluffs, and valleys using a combination of a hot knife, your trusty exacto blade, and a wood rasp for contouring. I like the foam idea maybe cause I am tired of the old ridged way. To get started I would look at the Woodland scenics website they have a whole system (called subterrain layout system) where you can build your model train layout entirely of foam. They have all the nifty foam tools available as well. Before buying all your foam I would check your local building supply they have foam board insulation there that you can use for a lot of it. Once you have your shape down most folks still like working with plaster (stainable, carvable) and end up laying plaster over the foam in some way or another. Don't forget to box out your tunnels first and then put your mountain over them. By the way it doesn't have to be solid foam either depending on what type of scenery you are putting on the surface and its size you may be able to just make an outer core of foam leaving a big hollow in the middle or back side. That happens to be one of the great features of foam board it works vertically too.

When your plaster dries your mountain will have its base shape.   If you don't like the way the apron fell you can add some more dimension to your mountain right on top to change the shape a bit.  You could crumple up some newspaper or lay in some more cardboard strips then plaster soaked papertowels over the top and feather them in.   Then you have to make it come alive with different rock outcroppings, stains, and the usuall turf and trees but that is a discussion for another day.

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Model Train Layout Benchwork

Most train folks when building a traditional model train layout go one of two ways, a flat table top supported by nothing much better than large saw horses or they build whats called benchwork. For beginners the table top might be the way to go, especially if the size isn't much more then 4'x8'. However, if you are building anything larger I suggest coming up with a plan to build some benchwork.

By the way, If you are building a modular or transportable model train layout then there is no choice, you have to build each section of benchwork to NMRA standards so that they are compatible to all other modular sections you will encounter when you transport and show your model train layout.

I have had model train layouts of all types.  From the loop around the Xmas tree, to the 4'x6' Murphy bed type, to the couple of 4'x8's slapped together, to the transportable modular, to the typical sectional benchwork kind. They all served a purpose, they all ran trains, they all taught me something.


4'x8' model train layout

If its the table top way your going all you need to do is support the plywood with enough 2x4's to keep it from sagging or to be able to support you if you need to get up there and fix something in the center. I would use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood.  Slap this thing together with some screws and get to town laying track and running trains.

Benchwork needs a bit more planning. A detailed track plan should also be in hand before designing your benchwork.  Hey you need to know which way the rails are going first.  Model train layout height and depth need to be considered before building. Realize the limitation of your reach no more than 36" deep and keep the height around 42". Model train layouts look the best closer to eye level but are harder to work on the higher they get.  Make the sections of your benchwork a reasonable size 4' or 8' long since you are probably buying 8' lumber and you may have to move one day. Plan on making frames of 1x4 with cross supports about every 12". For legs you can take two pieces of 1x4 or 1x3 and make L shape beams to transfer the weight of your model train layout to the floor. Then just screw or bolt the sections together in the shape/pattern you need for your overall plan. Using benchwork your track plan and layout shape doesn't need to be a square or rectangle, it can have all sorts of shapes to it. Quick Tip - Predrilling your holes with a pilot bit will stop the 1x3,4's from splitting.

Benchwork has an open frame which can allow you to put a flat surface on it when needed or easily attach vertical "T"supports for scenery or for subroadbed. A lot of guys are using extruded foam insulation sheets to handle all the subroadbed as well as its supports, but plywood is the old standby. It's all preference but those are the two main different mindsets of building subroadbed.. Using the open grid work style benchwork you have the most options and flexibility for your model train layout.


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Model Train Layout Standard Wiring

Nowadays there is an option to wire your HO or N scale model train layout for standard DC or DCC (digital command control) or some sort of combo deal. Our focus for now is Standard DC wiring from a beginner to novice level.  By the way these concepts holds true for all scales AC or DC.  Standard DC is how everyone starts out running trains. You need a transformer or powerpak that provides the proper power for your model train scale, wired directly to the track.  The transformer has a knob or lever that you move to increase train speed (its really increasing the voltage to the track). This is the traditional way to run trains, and is a great part of the foundation of the hobby.  

Model Train Layout Transformer

If you are mounting your track permanently to a piece of wood (loop around the xmas tree) or any model train layout (as in its not in pieces directly on the rug) you really should be soldering all the rail joints. With that in mind if you have a simple 4'x8' type layout then you need at least 2 locations where you need to connect the transformer to each loop of track. Lets say one on the near side and one on the far side.  This will help keep the voltage constant all the way around and help with either dirty or cheap locomotives and/or dirty track.  Dirty = less conductive. 

If you have a larger layout then a 4'x8', then I would drop leads down every 6'-8' of track. Run "bus" or "common" power wires all the way around below each loop of track and connect the power "feeders" or "drops" to your common wires.  You do need to pay attention to the gage wire you are using. For HO & N scale 18 gauge is a minimum for the common wires 24 gauge for the drops. If you have multiple main lines then you need a new set of common wires for each so that you can have separate control of each line.  Please don't confuse power drops between main lines...wow that can be time consuming to figure out later. Its not a bad idea to use color codeing or wire markers or tags on your wires to help identify them. When you are crawling around under your model train layout in the dark some time in the future trying to fix something they come in handy.
That will cover you if you are simply running a few independent loops on a simple layout. If your loops have interconnecting switch tracks you need to make sure you put isolating (non conductive) rail joiners between the switch tracks so the independent lines don't short together. Also the same goes if you want to control a turn out independently from the main line. You need to add Insulated rail joiners at the exact point where you want that separate control to start. You may want to store a locomotive on that turn out and simply shut the power off to just that section using a toggle switch. Once the turnout is isolated from the main line you can wire it in the same fashion as described above but don't connect it directly to the main line common wires. Wire it back to the transformer independently and before attaching it install a toggle switch in line to one of the wires. Toggle on it connects that turn out to power. Toggle off no power to that turn out.



model train layout control panel

If you have a mess of turn outs and toggles then you need to build yourself a control panel so you can neatly display the switches and keep the wiring straight. This can be rather simple or complex as you see in the pic to the right.  A control panel brings things to another level and building one is a real art and far beyond the scope of this article.



terminal block



For larger layouts Some will say for every power drop you should use a terminal block. I prefer to just skin back the common wires (not cut them) and solder the power drops right in. Soldering takes any connector failure off the table years down the road.  You can then use some electrical tape around the solder joint and staple them up tight. Introducing some terminal blocks here an there is not a bad idea for future trouble shooting since with a turn of a screw you can isolate a section from the rest and just search out the problem there, but don't go crazy. 

The great thing about Standard DC wiring is how much it teaches someone fresh to the hobby about electronics and working with different tools. What we discussed here will be enough to get a beginning to novice model train layout up and running. As you add more turn outs or sidings, or yards, or loops you take the basic info laid out in this article and apply it. If you want sections of the main line to be turned on and off well use the concepts outlined for turn out toggle switches. More interconnecting loops, don't forget your isolating rail joiners.

Till next time have fun running some trains!


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Cutting Model Railroad Track part 2

OK, so many of you sent in emails asking about the more advanced...quicker techniques for cutting model railroad track so here it goes. What we discuss here can also be used for cutting already installed track on your model train layout.  You can review the first part of this discussion by clicking here. These tips are for more advanced track layers and you need to use the proper eye protection.



any old pair of diagonal pliers

 I have seen many guys just grab any old pair of diagonal pliers and just go to town cutting the solid rail, ho or n, flex track. Then they have to spend hours cleaning up their mess when they realize they can't get the rail joiners on or if they do the cuts were so crooked there is too much of a gap between rails. If your laughing right now that's because you were just caught red handed as one of those " I love to file all day long" types.  You could use a sharp pair and pay attention to what you are doing and not do a bad job.  However, you are always going to have to break out the files and clean up a bit.



track cutting pliers

 I have a few friends that swear by a special pair of Cutters designed to cut HO and N scale track.  Xuron makes a pair, if you search for track cutting pliers you will find them out there.  Their description always says something like "clean cut every time". My sources tell me they give a cleaner cut then the old regular cutters at least while they are sharp, but that they still have to hit some cuts with a file here and there.




Dremel Flex Shaft



My favorite technique involves a Dremel, the cut off wheel bit, the largest fiber cut off wheel you can buy, and the snake or flex shaft attachment.  If you use a dremel without the flex shaft then the body of the tool gets in the way and you end up with crooked cuts every time...which you cold then use the dremel cut off wheel like a sanding disc and square the cut up. That will leave one heck of a bur. You then have to follow up with a file to get rid of the burs.  I always use the flex shaft. the body of the flex shaft unit that holds the cut off wheel is much thinner and if you are using a large cut off wheel you can get a near straight cut every time. Straight cuts lead to less filing.  However, dremels are pricey and you have to wear some goggles to protect the eyes while cutting so there is more to consider then just the quick snip of a pair of cutting pliers.

Weather you use the jig and saw method or the more advanced techniques discussed above the more track you cut the better at it you will become.  I know some track work can be tedious but send some extra time now while you are installing the track to avoid time consuming and discouraging problems later.


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Cutting Model Railroad Track



Model RailroadFlex Track

 Most folks in the Ho and N scale world use flex track on their layouts. When laying track you often need to cut your 36” flex track to a shorter length. Some Concepts explained here also work for "Gargraves" type flex track for o gauge as well. Depending on the gauge and weather or not your track is already installed on your layout your technique has to vary. Solid rail, tubular rail, wood ties, plastic ties it doesn’t matter the name of the game is patients. The biggest problem you may run into is ending up with a damaged rail or ties after you cut it. This hobby is expensive enough…no need to waste lengths of track. Make sure to use proper safety techniques including wearing eye protection when using all tools. Ooh and make sure you have a good set of small metal files because you’re going to need them.

Let’s examine the wooden Jig/metal cutting hacksaw approach to cutting track. I learned this from an old timer in the hobby. This is not the fastest way to cut track, however it’s the safest and most suggested for beginners.

First you have to make yourself a jig. This jig will hold the track firmly and safely in place minimizing any damage to the rails and your fingers. Take a length of wood that the track can sit on and be fully supported. Attach that to your table or workbench, which will be your cutting surface. For O gauge or smaller track you can then grab a piece of 2x4, a foot or so in length. Cut, lengthwise, with a wide saw blade or use a router grooves in the wood so that you can invert your jig and place it on top of the track and have the rails fit into those groves. Make them deep enough so the jig when inverted will sit flat on your ties. You want the grooves tight and centered in the wood. 


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#400 super saw

 

Mark the length of track where you need to cut it. Press firmly down with your jig onto the track making sure the grooves lay on the rails properly. Slide the jig up to the mark. Use a thin metal cutting saw such as a hack saw or small hobby saw and slowly draw the saw over your rails using the jig as a guide. If you take your time you will do the least amount of damage to the rails. If you try to cut with too much force or too fast you can damage the rail. When you’re done you may need to take a small file to the edge of the rail to remove any leftover burs.

If you need to cut one rail a different length then the other due to a curve or special instillation then slide the jig up the rail to the longest mark and cut just that rail. Then slide it down to the shorter marks and cut them.

If the track you want to cut is already installed on your layout the jig described above will only work if it is a perfectly straight section. If it is and you have all the clearance needed for the jig and your saw go for it. Otherwise you will need a different strategy.

There are a few more advanced track cutting techniques that are far less time consuming which I will discuss in another upcoming article. Stay Tuned!

See part 2 of this article HERE.

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BLOGS ... WHAT A SCAM

Since this is my first blog experience, I did some research into other blogs out there. What topics people were writing about, which topics became popular, formats, layouts, etc. Most blogs I came across were scams. They contained articles that gave you very little actual information...just words on a page...that were nothing more than Internet search grabbers. They would mention a topic, hit a few key words, and then in the most vague way talk about the topic just to drive traffic to their blog site so you could see the advertising and make the blogger money.  Most blogs are a scam. Period!

I was looking for help on a model railroad topic. In fact I wrote an article about it here on my blog so that others in the future with the same issue may find some real help. It had to do with failing axle gears on a proto 2000 ho scale locomotive.  It's a pretty specific issue to need help with.  Not being in the  model railroad business, just a hobbyist, I didn't know there was a problem years ago with these gears (preblog movement). So I missed the boat I guess with the online help. I found very little from any blogger or forum about the topic. I did, however, read or view a lot of blogs along the way that sucked me in via my Internet search for my gear problem that turned out to be such bogus BS. There are whole websites dedicated to ranking, listing, & searching blogs. All they really seem to be doing is running an advertising network or "ring". They have ads on their site pointing you to blogs that have advertising on their pages.  Everyone hoping that you will click a dumb ad on their blog page. Furthermore I found blogs and sites dedicated to the art of blogging and how to drive traffic to your advertisements..or ..a ..I mean blog articles.

Sure there must be real people blogging about real things, hey your reading this aren't you?  I'm a realist, not a whole lot of people are going to read my blog since I am not blogging about blogging (well i guess this article does) or about some over privileged celebrity's couchie flash last night at some club. I'm just putting some thoughts down on paper and if along the way a few people are either entertained or find an article useful then its a bonus.

Notice I wasn't vague, nor did I attempt to sell you something...ooh and as of now anyway you won't find any ads on this blog! I repeat most blogs are a scam.

Proto 2000 Axle Gear Problem Fix

Its been years a decade or so since I had my Proto 2000, Fa2, Locomotive out of the box and frankly I had no idea there was a major issue with their axle gears. I grabbed a new in box Fa unit via eBay for real cheap so I had a matched a-b-a set.  When it arrived one of the wheels was loose in the package and after further review a few were very loose on their axle gear (you could turn one wheel by hand not affecting any others) That looseness would never allow the locomotive to go anywhere pulling a load behind it. That's when I discovered after a few minutes of Internet research there was a pattern of failed axle gears in these units as well as the GP-7+'s.  (proto 2000 has been for some time now a part of Walthers and they stopped warrentying the gears long ago but they are cheap 6-10 bucks).

Well there is an easy fix. Almost anyone can do it. First purchase an Athearn axle gear replacement set. They will drop right in as direct replacements for your lifelike proto 2000 FA or GP7+ units. Part number on the axle gear set is ATH-60024.

The Package may say SD40 on it as well but don't get scared these things are right for your proto 2000. They come 6 to a package you need 1 per axle change them all if you have any issues.

When you have your new parts flip the locomotive over and carefully work off the plastic clip on the center of the truck between the wheels with a small flat head screwdriver. That clip keeps the axles from just falling out if you turn the loco right side up and it keeps both haves of the truck together.

Take out the axle you want to work on and pull off each wheel from the gear. If the gear is bad this is fairly easy to do by hand no tools needed to pry.  These gears tended to crack which gave the axle that is just pressed into it too much freedom to turn on its own.

Open a pair of pliers or channel locks very wide. The wider the pliers the more vertical (up and down instead of on an angle) the pressing action will be. Press on one wheel and axle into the gear. Then repeat for the other wheel. (you could also use a bench vise) You should not be able to do this by hand easily at all because of the new tight fit the replacement gear has.  You can grasp the axle gear with the groves in the pliers and hold it while working the wheel back out slightly if you end up pressing them in too far (which you probably will do).  Eventually you need to check the width of the wheels with a NMRA track and wheel gauge so you know you have them spaced properly. Make sure the gear is centered between the wheels. 

Once gauged properly your done- lay it back into the truck where it came from. It may take a second or two to line up the axle bushings properly before it drops in. Repeat for all of the axles..loose or not your their anyway.

One of the few videos I found online showing you this replacement http://youtu.be/O6rICPsxQbY

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