tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57743953013858856032024-03-12T22:21:42.901-04:00Model Trains and ThingsPat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comBlogger28125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-9927175981375802332023-01-03T06:46:00.013-05:002023-01-19T14:30:49.552-05:00Model Train Layout Update<p style="text-align: center;">Decided to document my HO model train layout build. This is not my first layout, however I am hoping its the last. From my simple benchwork design to detailing. I will show you progress as it happens. </p><p style="text-align: center;">The most recent photos will be at the bottom of this post.</p><p style="text-align: center;">November 2020</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp82GigrpZBVVHhYYMFs6myySIuXWKhFTHn5YIWQfA0KmglK__63vNLPaES795yjz055CMllQ6lcb-iMgHaRbpLSXkflZro9yU9Tqt-fPJF4TqvalJZSBlDLRubySQS81y83oFtBxB30Od1xXMLll8KxDdIOmu5EEKOGN2-Vo_fHYcyTMUTkoyeo52/s3024/454A445A-502B-4847-8FE8-06DA259DD570.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1923" data-original-width="3024" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp82GigrpZBVVHhYYMFs6myySIuXWKhFTHn5YIWQfA0KmglK__63vNLPaES795yjz055CMllQ6lcb-iMgHaRbpLSXkflZro9yU9Tqt-fPJF4TqvalJZSBlDLRubySQS81y83oFtBxB30Od1xXMLll8KxDdIOmu5EEKOGN2-Vo_fHYcyTMUTkoyeo52/s320/454A445A-502B-4847-8FE8-06DA259DD570.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><p style="text-align: start;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font></p><p style="text-align: center;">Above is the plan for phase one. Thanks to all the extra covid year time this got completed ahead of schedule. As you can see it is a L shaped layout. the long Leg of the L ends with the yard and turntable which you can see to the right side of the diagram. There are 2 doors into the room. One at the end of the short side of the L on the left side of the diagram. The Other door gives you access to my workbench area and the walk in "Middle" area of the layout. If you stand there the layout surrounds you which will be a pretty neat viewpoint.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;">I spent a lot of time on the design trying to maximize my space. When all trackwork is in you will be able to see that there are distinct viewing locations. Because of the design, the room shape, and features that will be rising up from the base of the layout certain areas will be separated from others.</p><p style="text-align: center;">January 2021</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLO-3AgbvFM-QC18aWIK_24y6rmJ58K5Lj9xu7k6zlcbt3jPFcyiI_xPAuaG0Mi2Evj1D42ofswYr0hww25tQMFlJ96MBUEJBiC1m8TIUwRxCsD5u8US61_vKGhEjCvLM1CL39ajTWNCSoNI-SWuAlpfpc1ryVl8fPE9ktyfLOMAwzwa5E0GlreBG1/s2048/965136E3-6ACB-4C44-80E1-D65BFC9DD2A9.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLO-3AgbvFM-QC18aWIK_24y6rmJ58K5Lj9xu7k6zlcbt3jPFcyiI_xPAuaG0Mi2Evj1D42ofswYr0hww25tQMFlJ96MBUEJBiC1m8TIUwRxCsD5u8US61_vKGhEjCvLM1CL39ajTWNCSoNI-SWuAlpfpc1ryVl8fPE9ktyfLOMAwzwa5E0GlreBG1/s320/965136E3-6ACB-4C44-80E1-D65BFC9DD2A9.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font>Simple 1x4 benchwork with 2x4 legs, we are not holding up a tank just some model trains.</p><p style="text-align: start;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1x8ui5NceeyzHTLEA29h1Z6OT5RPHdabw" height="400" src="https://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1x8ui5NceeyzHTLEA29h1Z6OT5RPHdabw" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="300" /><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;">Yard was saved from my old layout at my last house, what a time saver, all switch machines are in place! The turntable got installed at the end just to the left of the yard.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzeOyuVzMOTwsUnYDFl0413QHITaJZulayRDQCfJ7ncfjvKHNurWwJDqpfVR2rzShJQ6aqpfYs0em7D7E5gelms6CmzXLbkNoOjf4DDVZgdCbjQpAreLefevfzAl0SA-hra69dBxRE9bNbV2HWm-xd81jbCUi_-QpbFiFvaCrIMvcCO9BGi1O4QXx/s4012/20210110_204557525_iOS.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2044" data-original-width="4012" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzeOyuVzMOTwsUnYDFl0413QHITaJZulayRDQCfJ7ncfjvKHNurWwJDqpfVR2rzShJQ6aqpfYs0em7D7E5gelms6CmzXLbkNoOjf4DDVZgdCbjQpAreLefevfzAl0SA-hra69dBxRE9bNbV2HWm-xd81jbCUi_-QpbFiFvaCrIMvcCO9BGi1O4QXx/s320/20210110_204557525_iOS.jpg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">View of the long leg of the L shaped layout from the farthest corner.</div><p style="text-align: start;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKxERfmPYwrB9TNyv_SO4JIHypWhcm1Q_oNW_md2YRVDHksEPRBaBscmgTz5iFg1XDuxlwL6miyMzZQwtgzkoW9W5saCUHjusdBA9n4vyJa2JMV2TVQPRK-9yB-yoBOpWPkGSsFbd7JWF-9JxdUGo-PAi3RN9TjNJoCbhsUV6w9zOvjN1XxfQgg2n/s4011/20210110_204547135_iOS.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1797" data-original-width="4011" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKxERfmPYwrB9TNyv_SO4JIHypWhcm1Q_oNW_md2YRVDHksEPRBaBscmgTz5iFg1XDuxlwL6miyMzZQwtgzkoW9W5saCUHjusdBA9n4vyJa2JMV2TVQPRK-9yB-yoBOpWPkGSsFbd7JWF-9JxdUGo-PAi3RN9TjNJoCbhsUV6w9zOvjN1XxfQgg2n/s320/20210110_204547135_iOS.jpg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">View from the end of the short side of the L looking toward the corner that I took the previous picture from.</div><p style="text-align: start;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font></p><p style="text-align: center;">Simple and light 1/4” plywood for subroadbed. When Phase 2 kicks in and we get some higher elevation, I will cut some holes for access to install switch machines if needed.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOzjPdRNf3C10yydBIaAAym1hE4EzsOQ8_3262T5DVFgFD2QDglqSXZD-jrGLq_er1kJSzQFYq061jZGo3gEQ4kJNRE5bqqZRA1pjf76ibo7Z7qTu5vZcddCWm7NcBxfjNWUinLt0gvWqp49ALja5W7-yxCAJa9RtvyXINsvxgH6fl8qqSI16Cm_ud/s4032/3E93EB5D-91CE-4885-9AB4-0BC039D72258.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOzjPdRNf3C10yydBIaAAym1hE4EzsOQ8_3262T5DVFgFD2QDglqSXZD-jrGLq_er1kJSzQFYq061jZGo3gEQ4kJNRE5bqqZRA1pjf76ibo7Z7qTu5vZcddCWm7NcBxfjNWUinLt0gvWqp49ALja5W7-yxCAJa9RtvyXINsvxgH6fl8qqSI16Cm_ud/s320/3E93EB5D-91CE-4885-9AB4-0BC039D72258.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVBDNxe7VEDCIf3VEDxYfHOoRUJLMjseVsIAuQa1tsSHtmexj9LA6IIy-IbT4ENc-ZhDHOD85ny5UG1cs7AHdk8JeBpMMbNYTPuBC17OTg8ecOJeRfEklePX8g8gKX4QHYX0xiYaNOoO_gWMz0i2k38gOGt7QgQOzJN_nceEe0UH3Wt1XUi1jPGbr/s4032/DF15C276-126C-4E0F-8DD7-EA5F4D84BC01.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVBDNxe7VEDCIf3VEDxYfHOoRUJLMjseVsIAuQa1tsSHtmexj9LA6IIy-IbT4ENc-ZhDHOD85ny5UG1cs7AHdk8JeBpMMbNYTPuBC17OTg8ecOJeRfEklePX8g8gKX4QHYX0xiYaNOoO_gWMz0i2k38gOGt7QgQOzJN_nceEe0UH3Wt1XUi1jPGbr/s320/DF15C276-126C-4E0F-8DD7-EA5F4D84BC01.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></a></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVBDNxe7VEDCIf3VEDxYfHOoRUJLMjseVsIAuQa1tsSHtmexj9LA6IIy-IbT4ENc-ZhDHOD85ny5UG1cs7AHdk8JeBpMMbNYTPuBC17OTg8ecOJeRfEklePX8g8gKX4QHYX0xiYaNOoO_gWMz0i2k38gOGt7QgQOzJN_nceEe0UH3Wt1XUi1jPGbr/s4032/DF15C276-126C-4E0F-8DD7-EA5F4D84BC01.jpeg" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></a></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkq6lO6-eygfQby4ECOw6pbIHMHM4-8OWXFxjTKY5ms7eF38Sk17_Zf6xn7bVcTJwHt4v7Z649hamQrEvK2niqX2nHUvaLjAdLHaIjhFdUxGuIUlqsc_DqeOFhMNvwwjR7k8Xv26qGPySlWiFEf93xWVRmOnC4LralEXDOFdXt7Y1oNGEJ4isob3B/s3840/BFD11525-3BA6-4917-821E-F30AA3AC4CBC.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnkq6lO6-eygfQby4ECOw6pbIHMHM4-8OWXFxjTKY5ms7eF38Sk17_Zf6xn7bVcTJwHt4v7Z649hamQrEvK2niqX2nHUvaLjAdLHaIjhFdUxGuIUlqsc_DqeOFhMNvwwjR7k8Xv26qGPySlWiFEf93xWVRmOnC4LralEXDOFdXt7Y1oNGEJ4isob3B/s320/BFD11525-3BA6-4917-821E-F30AA3AC4CBC.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="180" /></a></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;">Typical cork roadbed gets glued and tacked down, tried and true.</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: start;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIcuHnG4LnoqDYPeBqKQ9lSYYxxqKdDKABKk0RNB0g9Thd1x5ZP_Pu6-zOHO2zB4-YGxTuhti6pS6gvH0i16IpwBEvPokL9pzR7eDM-QudcEwE04PGVH_a7F8nSrQPft-VQfTSf_-zesUYsyKy5y3Bzl-0hEQP_DpYiIM5oR4tGs9EPQemWUqo50t0/s4032/CB33991E-F1FA-4C4F-A969-B7CF27F24F56.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIcuHnG4LnoqDYPeBqKQ9lSYYxxqKdDKABKk0RNB0g9Thd1x5ZP_Pu6-zOHO2zB4-YGxTuhti6pS6gvH0i16IpwBEvPokL9pzR7eDM-QudcEwE04PGVH_a7F8nSrQPft-VQfTSf_-zesUYsyKy5y3Bzl-0hEQP_DpYiIM5oR4tGs9EPQemWUqo50t0/s320/CB33991E-F1FA-4C4F-A969-B7CF27F24F56.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Atlas code 100 flex track and mark iv turnouts with tortoise switch machines.</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: start;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ6gxM9gGhRWqA39fSKSV9-ZuLbRTv3cJfe-XPG6ugwHMnRIvL3eBf3pG0P078p2GFICaqtPfHWT-oNd7qlsxgVcK-frAd6mGuT8oretRtZcIQ6LkfA8pa08idqJ93MwFfNf0HN51zDIdSCx7_Z95xfuF-AmGSJPeKCARnSh0wQRVqBPpL6dV2X4i/s4032/409CBED1-3442-4783-A523-16A72FD22389.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ6gxM9gGhRWqA39fSKSV9-ZuLbRTv3cJfe-XPG6ugwHMnRIvL3eBf3pG0P078p2GFICaqtPfHWT-oNd7qlsxgVcK-frAd6mGuT8oretRtZcIQ6LkfA8pa08idqJ93MwFfNf0HN51zDIdSCx7_Z95xfuF-AmGSJPeKCARnSh0wQRVqBPpL6dV2X4i/s320/409CBED1-3442-4783-A523-16A72FD22389.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">mocking up the staging tracks and lining up the wiring to the control panel.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></font></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZCNDIyfiF-Yr-HGIIFxw2jXvoafWc-YbRzNcv4CaYkanf3CEBJJ6o6JRI1YITJQ2gFbxL1JlbZDbysGOa1FIFeFiX9RkxzoxLP6M_XAjzNw5MuIelYbZAxZ-OhaHyiTRNZ3CGo4IXbR35_h4MESZpd-YMGTVt1KsZWarm3vARM3pvryXdoicjc9NM/s2983/20210930_001114576_iOS.heic" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2334" data-original-width="2983" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZCNDIyfiF-Yr-HGIIFxw2jXvoafWc-YbRzNcv4CaYkanf3CEBJJ6o6JRI1YITJQ2gFbxL1JlbZDbysGOa1FIFeFiX9RkxzoxLP6M_XAjzNw5MuIelYbZAxZ-OhaHyiTRNZ3CGo4IXbR35_h4MESZpd-YMGTVt1KsZWarm3vARM3pvryXdoicjc9NM/w200-h156/20210930_001114576_iOS.heic" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="200" /></a><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">When you are in the yard area you really can't view the rest of the layout. This lets you feel as if it's a journey to the other side rather than 4 ft across the room.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Phase 1 is complete. All Operational.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">_________________</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;">November 2021</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;">Once phase one was completed I went right on to phase 2 the upper level which will be home to a few sidings and all the industry that the railroad serves. Check out the viaduct that leads up from the yard. Keeping things simple using 1x4 uprights glued and screwed in place to support the upper level 1/2" plywood, remember model trains are light you just dont want the wood to warp.</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2482" data-original-width="4030" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvA3EpD_msE5Exe1AeoqOAw5x24Q4hU4kyMEuOau9KtXoBvlrs9xXdX3ZBQVotjzvdvROov459eVLsE0AJZWjUVRu7nPesEUzeAPdDhoZMGDyiHf3J3TvQnPNTh9banRBHZ8GltDfkVn1bQdtqfjXzM3fiOply5Tp6ezY2kNkb1EUvE_o3DP7wQmOy/s320/040DC2CD-006D-41DC-ABD2-32F8D65027C6.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></font></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBl2LDo_IX5Mp-qXum8GVA4Glzk9lksgErkR5jGCwjjJk7n8o8sTs69dW0swr7b_mkXr4TXzlS6ueSvr45Ru0R7IwYhLJ3NIk28cpFFcvUFysmXPjfTDyiYW2BSOTDNdO4_8hI6O7mNCa_R3dcyx8gDvp1zt3ZJspTURCLtnGsKBN-PBMJpA9KKbNe/s4011/090E2940-BEBC-4182-B743-25A81BBA58D8.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: start; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2423" data-original-width="4011" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBl2LDo_IX5Mp-qXum8GVA4Glzk9lksgErkR5jGCwjjJk7n8o8sTs69dW0swr7b_mkXr4TXzlS6ueSvr45Ru0R7IwYhLJ3NIk28cpFFcvUFysmXPjfTDyiYW2BSOTDNdO4_8hI6O7mNCa_R3dcyx8gDvp1zt3ZJspTURCLtnGsKBN-PBMJpA9KKbNe/s320/090E2940-BEBC-4182-B743-25A81BBA58D8.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Mocking up the curve radius for the upper-level main line and sidings. How about that viaduct that rises up from the yard. When you are viewing from the perspective in the above picture the viaduct is a natural vertical separator from the back side of the layout so you can't see across. You have to walk around and view the yard from the opposite angle. This lends to more depth of the layout than the room actually allows.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: start;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7_SexeeSjJREJ21Y6I6sZLnRRW_CH9PoIs7us6BTB4Z3JE7tfu_tt2eYAxVi6HwQhw6M4PA0bFnRatqVV_QeyEgUjAhYaV-jFxF8pvLc6d5cQ-IcfW-VY_LjEliKCMpORhTKA1VZu7ZqPx174GeR0Xp9p8fQ0FVclTu1EZGpiQ7nIueKt8e5H-wp/s4030/5AFE038C-6B1A-44E0-823C-7DD6C97B50B6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2333" data-original-width="4030" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7_SexeeSjJREJ21Y6I6sZLnRRW_CH9PoIs7us6BTB4Z3JE7tfu_tt2eYAxVi6HwQhw6M4PA0bFnRatqVV_QeyEgUjAhYaV-jFxF8pvLc6d5cQ-IcfW-VY_LjEliKCMpORhTKA1VZu7ZqPx174GeR0Xp9p8fQ0FVclTu1EZGpiQ7nIueKt8e5H-wp/s320/5AFE038C-6B1A-44E0-823C-7DD6C97B50B6.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">some more pics of phase 2 upper level trackwork on the way....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">December 2021</div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: start;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZ6gxM9gGhRWqA39fSKSV9-ZuLbRTv3cJfe-XPG6ugwHMnRIvL3eBf3pG0P078p2GFICaqtPfHWT-oNd7qlsxgVcK-frAd6mGuT8oretRtZcIQ6LkfA8pa08idqJ93MwFfNf0HN51zDIdSCx7_Z95xfuF-AmGSJPeKCARnSh0wQRVqBPpL6dV2X4i/s4032/409CBED1-3442-4783-A523-16A72FD22389.jpeg" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br /></a></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; display: inline; font-size: 12pt; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Had to take a break from all the track work and wiring and start some scenery. Decided to spruce up one side of the viaduct. </span>First had to make some molds then pour lots of plaster. </div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; outline: 0px; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: start; text-size-adjust: 100%;"></font><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJdG6a0yiZKEUADVhLh00Fze72jG4M8fFRdKJS8WvnJHmyUJJ8-uLycsaSjliMYEamub3hhhY0e8Ulo5drILT0fYsC_iXTWwxY-wNhnRCu-7NB-2NOfG6ebmV6vO3zjM20vQK1xE86peu3JHedVI7mSZPfGdmNG9ZgVFuXd4l8F2e0gTCgpvxNbXSy/s4032/B8A92B65-4177-40A4-B16E-D96437AFFA08.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJdG6a0yiZKEUADVhLh00Fze72jG4M8fFRdKJS8WvnJHmyUJJ8-uLycsaSjliMYEamub3hhhY0e8Ulo5drILT0fYsC_iXTWwxY-wNhnRCu-7NB-2NOfG6ebmV6vO3zjM20vQK1xE86peu3JHedVI7mSZPfGdmNG9ZgVFuXd4l8F2e0gTCgpvxNbXSy/s320/B8A92B65-4177-40A4-B16E-D96437AFFA08.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></font></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDCmkvDTwbZDMeQRC9S8juagiUlLc5sofTDfvOC-TQo0q4BmbqbqQSWkNxt41am_ZBWPlLniTklnfqduQd8kw_1ssAL5TTOaAdDMamOr-DVKIVwCHxVdARuHjBjq9Wx-mH0wJFUekEF0D4J3XNMCJQe_GsriFaqd3lMYP1QK6itIwcLQYrf3tPgZ2Q/s4032/12700DD5-6D0B-4FDF-BAFE-573E723F7661.jpeg" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.3); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: start; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDCmkvDTwbZDMeQRC9S8juagiUlLc5sofTDfvOC-TQo0q4BmbqbqQSWkNxt41am_ZBWPlLniTklnfqduQd8kw_1ssAL5TTOaAdDMamOr-DVKIVwCHxVdARuHjBjq9Wx-mH0wJFUekEF0D4J3XNMCJQe_GsriFaqd3lMYP1QK6itIwcLQYrf3tPgZ2Q/s320/12700DD5-6D0B-4FDF-BAFE-573E723F7661.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">For the viaduct facade I needed some archways that I could not find so I made a mold of the above tunnel portal then used the outer retaining walls to fill in the inside of the archway...then made a mold of that and poured all the viaducts arches....lots of pours....lots </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><font color="#000000" face="sans-serif" size="3" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-8JfF-8GOCohYC7MmrlGGpkQxsZoGsc4vzOqe96z96tmDHwQjf4v828dEhLkeEOvcB6qm2i7dEFAku9yjMqgGgOzZ2I4psA9QLp_kqEqL2_rs_lsJBec-hHYSxUrDq7BHbzdWxEouA7qoNaqw1lRaSrl0kcaVd9ZHqYLTrN7vTAf0tbjYek2JOns/s320/40C03653-1939-49A5-804C-C1D591B7F540.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="240" /></font></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: start;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEaS-Wnv0mjgeMOnEwtx2Ncl7Hgqym8b4y_c_6Ilu0o1lztHsgMe9tOX69IIVZ1_UaGqEoqS4Qv5HNfcvmMkWTjtmiWT3TtW27OY74FuSUAIA6ywbSBMHhu3DzH63dz6-t2hBytTx4AjBAZW2gBj2RV-9DEn8PHFvDv5x6JUbHfyv6c9xgRgn3bQfU/s3024/4C54C42C-2441-4862-928C-287245B6CC61.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"></a><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd9zF8M49GS2SDK1Cq1ZeeraoGJ2wOiIUOLIvxd6m74CC1TgwNuepGkqq_vv_-tZwBWDr7p8E3d3uqy4zs5QV4ELFsZrIcCqNo9em3cUSTphYPbBV8cKvCXmSZKIJBUSeu-OirI0497I_D4s3tvXRK1zKlE8qdkrQX6C6qNcXs2ROCGyBRvM_hrsAL/s3024/23D759D5-E77A-4172-BC9A-4AB4977C9E43.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2388" data-original-width="3024" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd9zF8M49GS2SDK1Cq1ZeeraoGJ2wOiIUOLIvxd6m74CC1TgwNuepGkqq_vv_-tZwBWDr7p8E3d3uqy4zs5QV4ELFsZrIcCqNo9em3cUSTphYPbBV8cKvCXmSZKIJBUSeu-OirI0497I_D4s3tvXRK1zKlE8qdkrQX6C6qNcXs2ROCGyBRvM_hrsAL/s320/23D759D5-E77A-4172-BC9A-4AB4977C9E43.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Archways fit to both sides of the viaduct. As the height gets above the archway section, I am using a mold of a more finished cement block looking masonry wall. I researched pictures of this type of viaduct and saw all sorts of masonry combinations. In NJ there is new railroad built on top of old and other combinations. So the older stone archways remained and they at some point refurbished the higher elevations of the retaining wall with more modern block. That is what happens in real life.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpDPXtsttgp7xhWO81N7VI1wcPjoOfHkh2D3zLEt5vayN0jAevkUNap-X77oissRUTacMOx6tp7NsdfkYSe2PqsiPaTeQhiBnD6MHmDxqofH1UZBftWXG8sxm_9-tgZA8xPdC1HPOOjWs9tioSkOebZ4Ip0EiA0h5AFzePjh250AkmyaTY5wbASfH/s3024/836DB7CF-E241-49A4-A1FD-93AAF4960F91.jpeg" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2746" data-original-width="3024" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpDPXtsttgp7xhWO81N7VI1wcPjoOfHkh2D3zLEt5vayN0jAevkUNap-X77oissRUTacMOx6tp7NsdfkYSe2PqsiPaTeQhiBnD6MHmDxqofH1UZBftWXG8sxm_9-tgZA8xPdC1HPOOjWs9tioSkOebZ4Ip0EiA0h5AFzePjh250AkmyaTY5wbASfH/s320/836DB7CF-E241-49A4-A1FD-93AAF4960F91.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-size-adjust: 100%;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1977" data-original-width="4030" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbEmcRzpMXJBvIhNvlxqBaKU_RqKXNUYnlX9omDFmE71ITL1Fg7CuBsqUs0aG880PFSkLFwt4nm22axkQ74mXSFdEA2LhINGBw4Bp1xgsVLwtUOgDuuhvBELUwsza-fxvTROJt2wE_ByJeR9XWK8sCpfL4wnVRw93b-s2G04ycejCEm2-TUw-4YHzz/s320/20570623-27EF-4001-B2D5-F9493ECF0FFB.jpeg" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Kj-gpX-H-FzU8boBpKSbc5lOfTF62qOO1ZhWoNORv3-7ySOlEaVUHqQ4AbShjxDfYgLqKjG0UeGUVxMUpW62NqYuUgAc1URXBI-19rAzLaKoO29o3XeZGBB7YztkVloxVN5Pqzn8l17eK8jCqmM_1tpLfU_if9E-PoUgI381Wwv62UENBs0ilMNu/s3024/F836AC7F-16E7-438B-B3DF-BD86218B358F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1308" data-original-width="3024" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Kj-gpX-H-FzU8boBpKSbc5lOfTF62qOO1ZhWoNORv3-7ySOlEaVUHqQ4AbShjxDfYgLqKjG0UeGUVxMUpW62NqYuUgAc1URXBI-19rAzLaKoO29o3XeZGBB7YztkVloxVN5Pqzn8l17eK8jCqmM_1tpLfU_if9E-PoUgI381Wwv62UENBs0ilMNu/s320/F836AC7F-16E7-438B-B3DF-BD86218B358F.jpeg" style="height: auto; 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max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: start;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMK3J5b3YjwRiMOOmET9VkuJ_c2lL4z1vmoU-StEuqrvlUl_wnnBCZzlNYc2AgTuTkoIgY4YJ5rVXHZvC_wcpiFJLwEvRJOsKA0FZfFxLkuyArh71AGGwigoBxYzctbG0b9hcEqUW1uHNBpffhVF3R-v0tVM30_ZHgc7h8O8q4gk0MGGZ2go5zmmEb/s3024/9C062A36-0501-4727-99BD-C7CB591D9B75.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNIS4j_UBAtckLJnbkiSOe1TqHZGN7--nBJhrMYJeFta-BzkwZxn9PH6R6R8ImncMY3h0kF-pXodYb-5a4fZgLxOvwUeUybBPUKkkXefPGCs0vQLsMcmIS59bvlXp1xOuH2eO00ifPtcvQqDG8M_Gy_HzhlsDiEId3q7cci5zZuFN51V7mVKTocz2/s4030/20220302_004747698_iOS.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1233" data-original-width="4030" height="98" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNIS4j_UBAtckLJnbkiSOe1TqHZGN7--nBJhrMYJeFta-BzkwZxn9PH6R6R8ImncMY3h0kF-pXodYb-5a4fZgLxOvwUeUybBPUKkkXefPGCs0vQLsMcmIS59bvlXp1xOuH2eO00ifPtcvQqDG8M_Gy_HzhlsDiEId3q7cci5zZuFN51V7mVKTocz2/w320-h98/20220302_004747698_iOS.heic" style="height: auto; max-height: 80%; max-width: 80%; width: auto;" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The viaduct and tunnel area came out nice still lots more to do...some blending, weathering and hiding of seams. When I finish the scene you wont notice that the viaduct facade is made up of what felt like 100 sections... Thats for later down the road. I got a bit ahead of myself with this simply because I wanted a change of pace and wanted some color to look at.<div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">December 2022</div><div><br /></div><div>First official building built for this layout is the roundhouse. Did some great work making it look like 100 year old brick...the picture doesn't do it justice.<br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIKCTvSkpzMvc0PWa9N1b2m_PCejLp2x_dfeurV5HWK7dZsOJCcz-8nE8Ncyb4AsLta7jSN1wmWOepT0cbB9jazY0yQxUhTnp0kqPH4u7dLJIN9bUIFlGg-i9ytMOJg0K0wM38HtobfOofyKig6HWEVy6OOrCCP1uW8L4TByz0uhKve4rCymwWphj/s3024/roundhouse%20wall%20primed.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1839" data-original-width="3024" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIKCTvSkpzMvc0PWa9N1b2m_PCejLp2x_dfeurV5HWK7dZsOJCcz-8nE8Ncyb4AsLta7jSN1wmWOepT0cbB9jazY0yQxUhTnp0kqPH4u7dLJIN9bUIFlGg-i9ytMOJg0K0wM38HtobfOofyKig6HWEVy6OOrCCP1uW8L4TByz0uhKve4rCymwWphj/w381-h232/roundhouse%20wall%20primed.jpeg" width="381" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMVIQiyZSG1Z8TXdEQngHfLiRUDaX6xbD5_SvEMLRpgJm3mWvgRtn9j-ERZHMbVEBAAEcF2Az1GG8D4v1mAUkCGhj1EI3KsMgYE8IJ_QhScRfLTZch-TFOtw1qIGtZ6bZ-5kThBYNruVL6sfeuruKRGkNbaMIpIZTMjMPfW6VWFBQX1rYk1dKfDyVr/s3019/roundhouse%20wall%20painted.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2599" data-original-width="3019" height="327" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMVIQiyZSG1Z8TXdEQngHfLiRUDaX6xbD5_SvEMLRpgJm3mWvgRtn9j-ERZHMbVEBAAEcF2Az1GG8D4v1mAUkCGhj1EI3KsMgYE8IJ_QhScRfLTZch-TFOtw1qIGtZ6bZ-5kThBYNruVL6sfeuruKRGkNbaMIpIZTMjMPfW6VWFBQX1rYk1dKfDyVr/w379-h327/roundhouse%20wall%20painted.jpeg" width="379" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Fzi-5dAJHH_YZBsKrDysajsUY5p8z-YL8gfwJEXTtpPcceC8jgPbbFqeP57IJlDDn_yFr7BqhOl8cV78J-2CK1818do_OuTH6CLVpZBSk6ojSukBsU3J5Ov5tmVXBspfr2BDFUaVypZNhWv5lmgYLD2mZrsdszcFAoP-OBLRwhXKFHKl6gSHeeJ0/s3021/roundhouse%20complete.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1828" data-original-width="3021" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Fzi-5dAJHH_YZBsKrDysajsUY5p8z-YL8gfwJEXTtpPcceC8jgPbbFqeP57IJlDDn_yFr7BqhOl8cV78J-2CK1818do_OuTH6CLVpZBSk6ojSukBsU3J5Ov5tmVXBspfr2BDFUaVypZNhWv5lmgYLD2mZrsdszcFAoP-OBLRwhXKFHKl6gSHeeJ0/w385-h233/roundhouse%20complete.jpeg" width="385" /></a></div><br /><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></p></div><div><br /><p style="text-align: center;">January 2023 update pics</p><p style="text-align: center;">Buildings are just for mockup of space most are garbage.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKnW4drjNuG24cZ5KBH6A4tiL9DNAd4Bb1VLMwrYbD3UMqACN9Tb00VEXCIPaZvbz8yD3O8sYb1Xiw3y4JV8cqGG05dd0xzoLd9-z5E1rWJgFobpye3a6kH4FovR61CeJgaZn4115I6PhITEOWJ3xQ7cMqntM8DLHvS2wYyQ3FNHUOv5xeQnvpFR9/s2048/layout%201_2023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1448" data-original-width="2048" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKnW4drjNuG24cZ5KBH6A4tiL9DNAd4Bb1VLMwrYbD3UMqACN9Tb00VEXCIPaZvbz8yD3O8sYb1Xiw3y4JV8cqGG05dd0xzoLd9-z5E1rWJgFobpye3a6kH4FovR61CeJgaZn4115I6PhITEOWJ3xQ7cMqntM8DLHvS2wYyQ3FNHUOv5xeQnvpFR9/w389-h275/layout%201_2023.jpg" width="389" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiminZugx0yKGH4quxeFMilaUsthJ8TEA31tPMtJUjLq2yIN-pkHAeG8pQ2xO_4lM2O9LT56mJkKruObiLmVAfa_T28u3BV5YRkXLT1Sp1J2XNSRzaLgbnfqOrPY-aqBDFV4AwRKzrvcG3t0_-xYjKzkOT8cZhA3vVoew697ryZJX3NEgJzcjbkImXd/s2048/layout%201_2023%20a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1172" data-original-width="2048" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiminZugx0yKGH4quxeFMilaUsthJ8TEA31tPMtJUjLq2yIN-pkHAeG8pQ2xO_4lM2O9LT56mJkKruObiLmVAfa_T28u3BV5YRkXLT1Sp1J2XNSRzaLgbnfqOrPY-aqBDFV4AwRKzrvcG3t0_-xYjKzkOT8cZhA3vVoew697ryZJX3NEgJzcjbkImXd/w390-h223/layout%201_2023%20a.jpg" width="390" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfXbfs0zkyzEOlZYk9GIwo5iAJt-qJflX8LbPeEy1JMHMckx7Xjes9qhsIuTrHqivcU5IlUGZcKp24u_y7v8TjyRgOo-lsaN_rrG7ChdZ4bd0yG9sIjP5ZUgCjXoA9JNOQ8ADgdWX9ankdbxdXshNm2aT7HVb023lQJT41YjJjwBvMGzETyT4Y-_k/s2048/layout%201_2023%20b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1302" data-original-width="2048" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfXbfs0zkyzEOlZYk9GIwo5iAJt-qJflX8LbPeEy1JMHMckx7Xjes9qhsIuTrHqivcU5IlUGZcKp24u_y7v8TjyRgOo-lsaN_rrG7ChdZ4bd0yG9sIjP5ZUgCjXoA9JNOQ8ADgdWX9ankdbxdXshNm2aT7HVb023lQJT41YjJjwBvMGzETyT4Y-_k/w386-h245/layout%201_2023%20b.jpg" width="386" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq2S1lHF-MXtyBa6cVVIhWX2U5FM4MXdnUz-9EmgPF6Ud8X0WohNcNlM6BjngwlBtMnCuPUSlI5a2mYFmihwUX_ULNdIognMc1uoU9PeXn0k0rDQjxJolNUFbvyA8jgkGoB1XSzqooD08oQgXCV-OP7xkzBOVL0w2jWrOAAZajG7qvN2UfoaOzfJwq/s2048/layout%201_2023%20c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq2S1lHF-MXtyBa6cVVIhWX2U5FM4MXdnUz-9EmgPF6Ud8X0WohNcNlM6BjngwlBtMnCuPUSlI5a2mYFmihwUX_ULNdIognMc1uoU9PeXn0k0rDQjxJolNUFbvyA8jgkGoB1XSzqooD08oQgXCV-OP7xkzBOVL0w2jWrOAAZajG7qvN2UfoaOzfJwq/w380-h285/layout%201_2023%20c.jpg" width="380" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">The control center is so long I can't quite get it in one pic from the angle I have available.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqXJja_u4zIsXzDrF-SHmQHtvLKx6KtP9K1IJPDwoLnKi4Jm0C5yGFvCDrO6dPRYR1i5Vt4_tLMM1yxP-hX3cRIlgGyEAIKBQ7eEKC92ywJtqge5rgevCAC9xzfBVkpd5caqRyj54kLqJJExZ2zg46jS6JRAY-YRO6eLWVWS1eFg0RqrYqWLpFgtZ/s2048/layout%201_2023%20d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1176" data-original-width="2048" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqXJja_u4zIsXzDrF-SHmQHtvLKx6KtP9K1IJPDwoLnKi4Jm0C5yGFvCDrO6dPRYR1i5Vt4_tLMM1yxP-hX3cRIlgGyEAIKBQ7eEKC92ywJtqge5rgevCAC9xzfBVkpd5caqRyj54kLqJJExZ2zg46jS6JRAY-YRO6eLWVWS1eFg0RqrYqWLpFgtZ/w378-h217/layout%201_2023%20d.jpg" width="378" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhW9RrWwT0Qk6WM_v9Ew_m1QnDq1fTsuCnRj1ql7yTmuDpOu4Kvtpef-ff2_HcBFe-AsgdI3ZwkhjkrhMlaZggrCvQo4-6mBu5XL460SMr6XXShYVthOI1q8eP9wwh826XqZzxen2kH8YJdDrHU9cwOYO1w1tFr0z20Bh83ZCSPcXLmbPWdXgYriu/s2048/layout%201_2023%20e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhW9RrWwT0Qk6WM_v9Ew_m1QnDq1fTsuCnRj1ql7yTmuDpOu4Kvtpef-ff2_HcBFe-AsgdI3ZwkhjkrhMlaZggrCvQo4-6mBu5XL460SMr6XXShYVthOI1q8eP9wwh826XqZzxen2kH8YJdDrHU9cwOYO1w1tFr0z20Bh83ZCSPcXLmbPWdXgYriu/w377-h283/layout%201_2023%20e.jpg" width="377" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p></div></div></div>Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-76819989377994311222018-05-16T13:41:00.000-04:002020-05-01T10:01:01.567-04:00How to build a model car model from kit selection to a mirror finish<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<br />
I
started building car models somewhere around 1985 at the age of 10.
Back then I loved doing it but my biggest issue was patients. I remember
always rushing through the steps trying to get done and always
mishandling the parts or getting finger prints in the not so dry paint
or even worse too much plastic cement on the clear window parts creating
a hazy mess. Imperfections and all I continued to build them learning a
little as I went along. Back then I picked up some tips from my Dad but
mainly I learned by trial and error, lots of errors. By the time I
finished High School I did a good job for an amateur that used spray
cans of paint and the infamous little testers brand bottles of enamel
and a brush for the details.<br />
<br />
Toward the end of high
school building car models was frustrating, because I couldn't get them
as perfect as I wanted them mainly due to the spray cans I was using to
finish the car bodies. I purchased a killer airbrush a Paasche VL model
on a recommendation from an artist friend who did some great work but I
had no success. Between learning how to operate it to problems with the
air source to cleaning it.....I boxed it up...shelved it and went off to
college.<br />
<br />
That was all before the internet....yep learning how to do things pre google or utube was hard.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://assets.hemmings.com/blog/wp-content/uploads//2014/06/TULSA142481.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Image result" border="0" class="irc_mi" height="114" src="https://assets.hemmings.com/blog/wp-content/uploads//2014/06/TULSA142481.jpg" style="margin-top: 151px;" title="Starsky and Hutch Gran Torino" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starsky and Hutch Gran Torino</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I
moved recently to a new place and have a ton of work to do before I can
get my new model railroad started..a lot, moving walls, plumbing, etc.
I couldn't wait and realized I could quickly set up a temporary
workbench almost out of the way and build car models as long as I
figured out how to perfect the building and painting process. Thanks to
utube, I did.</div>
<br />
I have picked a theme for my first few models and that is iconic tv cars from the 1980's or so era.<br />
<br />
The
first up is Starsky and Hutch Ford Gran Torino. The second is the
General Lee from the Dukes of Hazard, the Third is the A team Van, and
the fourth the black firebird "kitt" from knight rider and the Ferrari from magnum pi.<br />
<br />
What scared me about this Torino was the big white stripe water transfer decal, but more on that later.<br />
<br />
Read this whole article before starting your next kit....If you don't have the patients to do that then you don't have them to properly make a car model either.<br />
<br />
Actual Model I finished:<br />
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
<u><i><b>Model kit selection</b></i></u><br />
<br />
The
kit Manufacturer is huge. Monogram was always my favorite back in the
day and now Revell Monogram has proven to provide the best quality kits.
If you have a choice dont buy any plastic kit unless its made by them and issued recently.
The Gran Torino kit is the best quality I have ever had. In contrast the
only way I could get a General Lee kit with the rebel flag decal for
the roof was to get one made by MPC issued some time ago and let me tell you it is complete
garbage. The parts are molded so bad you can't tell where the extra
plastic flash ends and the parts start. That made it a bear to try and
line things up. The instructions were drawn by a 3 year old and frankly
that same kid hand carved most of the plastic molds. The detail that
shows up on the interior I had to work to hide rather than show off. The
reviews kind of stated all of that but I wanted that car with that flag
decal so I purchased it anyway and did all the extra work.<br />
<br />
Buying a modern issue Revell kit will yield the least amount of sanding and prepping.<br />
<br />
So here are the next ones on the bench....finished images will appear when I get em done.<br />
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<img alt="Image result for general lee" class="irc_mi" height="149" src="https://assets.catawiki.nl/assets/2017/10/26/9/a/d/9ad43d22-ba6f-11e7-88da-fd984c8ad27f.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">General Lee</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Image result for a team van" class="irc_mi" src="http://www.lostgenerallee.com/complete_van1.jpg" height="109" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 52px;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A team Van</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Image result for knight rider" class="irc_mi" height="133" src="https://www.zurkopromotions.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/KITT-Promo-Shot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 9px;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Kitt" Knight Rider</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Check out the reflection in the door panel of the close up shot of KITT.</div>
<br />
<u><i><b>Buying your supplies</b></i></u><br />
<br />
I use a combination of Hobby Lobby/Michael's, Amazon, Ebay to purchase all my supplies. I have found Hobby Lobby the best for the acrylic paint selection and price and I use a combination of ebay and amazon for the kits and other supplies.<b> </b><br />
<br />
<i><u><b>Prepping your model</b></u></i><br />
<br />
Review
the instructions. Take note of anything you have to add onto the body
that will get painted at the same time as the body. some or all of those
items you are going to have to assemble and maybe do some body work on
so they will have to be assembled pre paint.<br />
<br />
All of the
non chrome and non clear parts need to be scrubbed with isopropyl
alcohol and a new tooth brush. this will remove the mold release agent
that will prevent paint and glue from adhering properly. Be careful not
to break the fine thin parts while scrubbing. Let the parts air dry.
Going forward if you are going to handle them without nitrile gloves
then before paint scrub them again to get your fingerprints off them.<br />
<br />
<i><b><u>Car Body</u></b> </i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71X2x5tZqUL._SY355_.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="micro mesh sanding kit" border="0" class="irc_mi" height="200" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71X2x5tZqUL._SY355_.jpg" style="margin-top: 79px;" title="micro mesh sanding kit" width="200" /></a>For
the Car Body study the parts. You will notice mold marks from
the casting process. These are seems that show up in the part that have
to be removed. Some of them can get tricky because they get hidden in or
near the natural body lines of the car. Wet sand them out with 800 grit
wet/dry sand paper. Be careful not to take too much material off the body and
don't sand out any surrounding detail. Don't leave extra sanding marks where you do not have too. To help with the collateral
damage cut your sand paper into 1" x1.5" rectangle and use even
pressure and rinse in water frequently to clear the grit.<br />
<br />
Get yourself a Micro Mesh Sanding Kit. The sanding Pads come in a grit range of 1500-12000. You will use them on the car body.<br />
<br />
<img alt="Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty (Filler)" class="vi-image-gallery__image vi-image-gallery__image--absolute-center" data-src="https://ssli.ebayimg.com/images/g/tJ0AAOSwMmBVoznt/s-l640.jpg" height="200" src="https://ssli.ebayimg.com/images/g/tJ0AAOSwMmBVoznt/s-l640.jpg" width="155" />Once you are done with all the mold lines make sure to do any obvious
body work with your plastic filler. I use Deluxe perfect plastic putty it seems to flow the best into the spots that need to be filled and sands out great. for fine lines such as when you are putting together the engine block or any other small assembly that creates a gap at the seem you can also use <i>fast drying white out</i>. You simply lay it on the seem in a few coats till it is built up enough let it dry and then sand it down reapply as needed.<br />
<br />
Once your body work is done break out your sanding pads from the micro mesh kit and start wet sanding with the 3200 grit pad and do the entire car body. Any areas that seem to low from the molding process will show up with a different sheen from surrounding areas. Hopefully the pads can straighten out those low spots or you will have to stop, fill them with the putty and sand em out before continuing. These pads are great because they are so flexible and don't kill off detail so easily.<br />
<br />
Use even pressure and go front to back as much as possible. Then go side to side with the same pad to make sure you got everything good.<br />
<br />
If all looks good and even use the 3600, then 4000. At this point, 4000, if you press too hard you will actually shine the car body up too much and will not leave enough rough stuff for your paint to bite on too. There should be little to no sand marks left from any body work or mold line removal. You may want to use the 6000 grit but that is a case by case basis.<br />
<br />
That was a lot of sanding work but it will pay off. Now you can scrub your car body down with a new clean toothbrush and alcohol (not the drinking kind) and let it air dry. Once dry it is ready for paint, which is where you will really screw it up if your not careful so make sure your are...details to follow. Do not touch the body with your bare hands after the alcohol scrub...period...use nitrile gloves or your finger prints will interfere with paint adhesion. <br />
<br />
If you want to break up the sanding work you can start building sub assemblies of the interior or engine or chassis or do it in the order the instructions tell you too. I personally get the car body ready for paint then while I am waiting for paint or clear coat to dry I work on the other sub assemblies. I hardly every go in "order".<br />
<br />
<b><u><i>Sub Assemblies</i></u></b><br />
<br />
Be careful removing parts from the plastic trees or you will end up with divots you will need to fill later. Cut them off with a small set of wire cutters, trim with an exacto knife, sand off any flash or mold lines with sanding sticks (which you can get at hobby lobby in different grits). You may even be able to scrape off the mold lines with a sharp exacto then just even off the surface with a light sand.<br />
<img alt="Image result for hobby lobby sanding sticks" class="irc_mi" height="200" src="https://myp48.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/sanding-sticks-1.jpg" style="margin-top: 0px;" width="104" /><img class="TL92Hc gEUlPd" height="200" src="https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcRHfhU616-CPs-4XFPZOgzIFVVL7IpATML8u30P8vHmx8koMCQ-&usqp=CAY" width="200" /><br />
I would start with the engine. Get the Block and what ever other parts you want the same color as the block together. Do not put on any chrome. Sand, Fill, & Sand any seems so that once you paint them the seems fade away. Over time you will learn what seems are visible what aren't so as to not waste time filling a seem you can't see.<br />
<br />
Test fitting is your friend. Before you glue you need to test fit the part together and then even the sub sub assembly with the larger assembly...well you get the point. The stuff is plastic not granite. You can cut, sand, manipulate it all to work if in fact there is a clearance issue.<br />
<br />
For glue I use mostly a loctite gel control super glue and some other standard ca glues when I need to have thinner glue that runs. Flowing super glue is a model car's worst nite mare. I like putting a drop of gel on surfaces and having it stick there. Also I use a ca kicker most times to speed things up...put a little kicker on one side...glue on the other an stick em together...done...so be careful no retries.<br />
<img alt="Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue" height="200" src="https://de2wfhoo6xqi5.cloudfront.net/size/600/4ac/bcc/51089f7aa1afd5104a32083192c4f9eda2.jpg" title="LOC1363589" width="200" /><img alt="Bob Smith Insta-Cure+ Medium Thick CA Super Glue" class="attachment-shop_single size-shop_single wp-post-image" data-zoom-image="https://modelmerchants.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Insta-Cure-Bob-Smith-Industries-1.jpg" height="143" itemprop="image" src="https://modelmerchants-w27kwsa7tir.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Insta-Cure-Bob-Smith-Industries-1-370x265.jpg" title="Bob Smith Insta-Cure+ Medium Thick CA Super Glue" width="200" /><img alt="Zap Zip Kicker CA Accelerator 2oz Adhesive Accessory" class="ProductPhotoImg" height="133" id="ProductPhotoImg" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1052/4162/products/zap-zip-kicker-ca-accelerator-2oz-adhesive-accessory-motion-rc-11280196294_1024x1024.jpg?v=1498479936" width="200" /><br />
<br />
Remember to paint as you go lay out the colors properly so you don't have to mask too many times. Also most glue does not work on painted surfaces well so you have to scrape a little off in each spot to allow the glue to hit the plastic.When masking use a low tack mask tape...most regular tape is high tack...even the blue painters tape can tear off paint from parts. Tamiya makes a great masking tape in different thicknesses and some designed to go around curves.<br />
<br />
<i><u><b>Painting</b></u></i><br />
<br />
Only use acrylic paint via an airbrush (Paasche vl series). Collect all the parts you want the same color and paint them all at once to save some time. Airbrushing acrylic paint is about many light layers. 3,4,6 coats. Use the paint that comes in the screw/flip top plastic bottle such as applebarrel, folkart, anita, etc.<br />
<br />
<img alt="Plaid FolkArt Acrylic Colors 2 oz" src="http://painting-crafts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/l/plaid-folkart-acrylics_1.jpg" height="200" style="max-height: 300px; max-width: 300px;" title="Plaid FolkArt Acrylic Colors 2 oz" width="182" /> <img alt="Model VL Airbrush Set" height="200" id="dnn_ctr510_ProductPageView_ProductHeaderView_mainphoto" src="https://cdn.dick-blick.com/items/250/10/25010-0300-2-2ww-m.jpg" style="border-width: 0px;" title="Model VL Airbrush Set" width="200" /><br />
If you use anything other than acrylic paint, clean up is a chore, you cant fix mistakes easily, it will discourage you from model building in general...and they stink..literally. <br />
<br />
Mix a small jar full at time for airbrushing and when you are done pour it back in the bottle. You need to thin this paint to the consistency of milk. I use a plastic coffee stirrer and when I can stir then lift it out and get about 3 drops off the stirrer quickly its ready. Thin the paint with good ole blue, el cheapo, windshield washer fluid....yes I said windshield washer fluid not the fancy rainex type, use the old standby. I also use this to flush out my airbrush after coats of paint. The blue color does not change the color of the paint.<br />
<br />
Put some washer fluid in a squeeze bottle like one used for condiments or oil at a sub shop. you can then easily add it to your mixing jar and its great to hose down your airbrush and paint cup in between coats. Run it through till everything is clear. The washer fluid has some sort of wetting agent that keeps the paint from drying too quickly as the airbrush atomizes the paint.<br />
<img alt="Windshield Wash Cleaner, 1 Gal, 32 F" class=" lazyloaded" data-src="https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z1r5HvkcpEx_.JPG" height="200" src="https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z-0MI_fo5oy.JPG" width="108" /><img alt="Image result for plastic squeeze bottles" class="irc_mi" height="200" src="https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/25868e2c-12b2-43af-a6bc-13774048cd58_1.e6895c2e2fbb10a0c2480729a1e58e1a.jpeg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF" style="margin-top: 32px;" width="200" /><br />
Use light even coats...stay half an arm's length away from the surface. Think about laying down 6 coats of color for the car body. You wont start to see the real color till coat 3 or 4. You can wait till the surface looks dry....which could be only 5 minutes before the next coat if the humidity is low and it was a light coat. I only lay down 3 coats in a sitting. then I let it dry for 24 hours and continue. If a spec of dust got on the surface I ever so lightly hit it with a corner of a 4000 or 6000 grit sanding pad to try and get it out but the color must have at least 24hrs dry time before trying this fix. If you rip the spec off to bare plastic you will have a hard time filling that spot back up to meet the rest of the color coats. You must use a very light touch while fixing blemishes.<br />
<br />
If you make the paint run from it being too heavy or other wise screw it up, the beauty of this paint is it can come right off. If it is still wet, or not completely set you can rinse it under the faucet and it will come right off. If it has set and you notice an imperfection you cant live with then spray your part down with Windex and it will dissolve the paint off without harming the plastic. You may need to scrub with a tooth brush but it will come off and you can start over once things dry.<br />
<br />
Also remember to run some washer fluid through the airbrush between coats and definitely between colors. This is a quick process and allows you to change colors quickly. <br />
<br />
I hardly brush anything but small details anymore. Some engine parts, interior highlights etc.<br />
<br />
For airbrush air supply I use a small airbrush compressor by master airbrush I found on amazon. This thing is quite and more importantly puts out the right pressure right out of the gate for what you need.<br />
<br />
I also use a nifty airbrush booth which you can find all over the internet to help exhaust the fumes.<img alt="Paasche HSSB-16-13 Hobby Spray Booth, 16-Inch Wide by 13-Inch High" class="a-dynamic-image a-stretch-horizontal" data-a-dynamic-image="{"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41ocOxz9TLL.jpg":[462,500],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41ocOxz9TLL._SX466_.jpg":[431,466],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41ocOxz9TLL._SX425_.jpg":[393,425],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41ocOxz9TLL._SX450_.jpg":[416,450],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41ocOxz9TLL._SX355_.jpg":[328,355]}" data-old-hires="" height="184" id="landingImage" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41ocOxz9TLL._SX425_.jpg" style="max-height: 347.424px; max-width: 376px;" width="200" /><br />
<img alt="Master Airbrush Model TC-60, Super Quiet High Performance Airbrush Compressor with a 6 Inch Braided Hose with Mini-Inline Moisture Filter and a Free Quick Disconnect" class="a-dynamic-image a-stretch-vertical" data-a-dynamic-image="{"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SY355_.jpg":[355,355],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SX522_.jpg":[522,522],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SX466_.jpg":[466,466],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SX425_.jpg":[425,425],"https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SY450_.jpg":[450,450]}" data-old-hires="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SL1500_.jpg" height="200" id="landingImage" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71cpVGvWodL._SX425_.jpg" style="max-height: 376px; max-width: 376px;" width="200" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><u><i>Applying water slide decals</i></u></b><br />
Let me start with saying this is not an easy process. The bigger the decal is the harder it will be to get it right...also the more curves or bumps it has to go over the harder it will be to get it right. The White stripe on the gran torino kit I reference above almost gave me a stroke. That thing was curved and in 3 sections. To get it all to line up as it went accross door panels and up and over the hood was crazy.<br />
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Micro Set...and Micro Sol. Get them! Small bottles go along way.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDHeQDIoiwn88AqWPKvNDLxL9PATlBWtjb1dEGFKvPurXIpZLd-QkOxhdsycLV3EtGs7MPYp2OkMdY7izJ5kXjXvbd_ejz-0zU9Kt0TpdKDglLyj8zqXet2S-nE1Gs8eSnNqs3OyqwDH0/s1600/8DEC677A-5805-4EA3-9F8B-DAFD111DEE62.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1334" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDHeQDIoiwn88AqWPKvNDLxL9PATlBWtjb1dEGFKvPurXIpZLd-QkOxhdsycLV3EtGs7MPYp2OkMdY7izJ5kXjXvbd_ejz-0zU9Kt0TpdKDglLyj8zqXet2S-nE1Gs8eSnNqs3OyqwDH0/s320/8DEC677A-5805-4EA3-9F8B-DAFD111DEE62.png" width="179" /></a></div>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5774395301385885603" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Cut out your decal. Wet it with water. Let it sit till it freely can slide around on the backing. While you are waiting for the slideability to kick in. Apply Micro Set to the area you are going to lay the decal on. This will let it be able to move around a bit for placement and give it some extra grip when it tries to set up. Then using a soft brush or Que tip apply some Micro Sol to the decal if it needs some help to lay down over bumps or curves. This will soften the decal. So don't play around with it too much or you will melt the face of the decal. Then let it dry...do not continue to mess with it.<br />
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<i><u><b>Clear Coat</b></u></i><br />
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This is the most important step of the painting process. The clear coat will give your model an amazing mirror finish shine....or if screwed up will cause you to buy another kit and start the body all over again! For the clear coat itself I use a rattle can of Rustoleum specialty lacquer clear finish.<b> </b><br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5774395301385885603" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi33M_VDZKLbZqnna-iv1TTAJ01_caDZtC9tIFP8EC8gE_r2eM0ThkpbZh2h-PKE2rM0LcbuJ9-a2AzXMaQ9-mEkd99tp8Nju0Oqjxx7xiufrGr86KkGSRwzNUIwNqBqqyFa18J3qtolRY/s1600/lacquer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1360" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi33M_VDZKLbZqnna-iv1TTAJ01_caDZtC9tIFP8EC8gE_r2eM0ThkpbZh2h-PKE2rM0LcbuJ9-a2AzXMaQ9-mEkd99tp8Nju0Oqjxx7xiufrGr86KkGSRwzNUIwNqBqqyFa18J3qtolRY/s200/lacquer.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
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This stuff works great! No need to airbrush a clear coat use this right out of the can. It does smell up the joint which is the only drawback. Use a respirator and ventilate well. Once your last color coat is dry for a few days...I let mine stand a week...you are ready to put your first light coat on. Do not rush this. Your color coat must be cured. Using the acrylic stuff I mentioned above a few days is fine but any other type your on your own. If your color coat isn't cured long enough when you apply clear it could wrinkle up and pull the color away from the body. That is a fatal mistake. Any Decals that you need to apply would be done after the first light coat. If you applied decals do yourself a favor and let them dry a few days before proceeding. Do not rush this. If you arent applying any decals then you can proceed to put on 2 more coats the same day. Like the color coats I only put on 3 in one day and let the last coat dry for 1 day before the last 3 coats. You want slow steady control of the spray stream out of the can. Be careful of the distance from the car body so that you dont get any runs. However too far away and it drys out too much leaving too rough a finish. Remember light coats. The closer your spray can is to the car body the wetter it will go on increasing the chance of runs. The further away the dryer it will go on...you have to find the perfect balance. The slower you move left to right with the spray the heavier the coat will be. Your first few coats will look quite rough if you are doing them light enough.<br />
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If you apply any decals i would suggest 5 lite coats of clear after the application of the decals. (1 coat prior to application of decals) Then a final wet coat..totaling 7.<br />
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If there are no decals than a total of 6 coats is what I apply.<br />
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The last coat of clear you want to be what is called a "wet" coat. this is the heaviest coat you can put on before it runs. This is a tricky thing to master it involves lots of variables so at first think just a bit heavier than the light coats you have been applying. Runs are hard to get out during the wet sand process but with some work you may be able to fix them. Better not to have any.<br />
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Once your last clear coat is dry for a week you are ready to wet sand and polish. If you put it on a bit too heavy then there is too much clear coat and even after a week you could see marks appear on the clear coat from handling-as if it is dry on outside but wet underneath. its weird I have experienced this.<br />
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<i><u><b>Wet sand and polish for a mirror finish</b></u></i><br />
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More than likely you will notice a orange peel finish to your clear coat this seems to be normal. Wet sand your car body with 2500-3600 grit sand paper or the sanding pads to take the high spots off. You will have to determine the grit and use a light touch. You will notice the sheen difference between high and low spots right a way. Use light even pressure. You do not want to leave any deep scratches nor burn through the clear coat and hit the color. You will burn through on any corners or detail that bumps out from the "flat" part of the car body. Stay away from those areas and focus on the wide open spaces of the hood roof doors and fenders. Remember to use very small 1" or so squares of sandpaper to keep down any collateral damage...better yet use your sanding pads.<br />
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Keep rinsing the paper/pads and keep the body wet so you don't build up any extra grit or gunk that may leave deep scratches. Do not over sand...light pressure..back and forth just a few times. You are just looking to take off any High spots of the clear coat. If you get an even dull finish then you are done. If it is spotty then there are still some high spots. Stop and check often you can always continue on but once you have taken the clear coat off you cant put it back on easily. <br />
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If you are wet sanding over decals be very careful not to take off any more clear coat than you have too. The idea with this stage of the process is to just level off the clear coat and do nothing more.<br />
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After wet sanding your finish will be dull. To get it to be a mirror shine you need to compound out the dullness. I use a 3 stage compounding system by Tamiya. The first stage is coarse, second is fine, third is finish.<br />
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<img alt="Tamiya Polishing Compound Coarse Fine Finish Applicator 87068 87069 87070 87090" class="vi-image-gallery__image vi-image-gallery__image--absolute-center" data-src="https://ssli.ebayimg.com/images/g/IVYAAOSwhkRWds0f/s-l640.jpg" height="200" src="https://ssli.ebayimg.com/images/g/IVYAAOSwhkRWds0f/s-l640.jpg" width="150" /><br />
What a great product this system is. There may be a standard auto product at pep boys that you can buy that is basically the same stuff but I have never tried any out. Why fix something that isn't broken. One full set of compounds Will be enough for 20+ models since you use it so sparingly.<br />
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Take a clean rag, I use old stained up t shirts, and put a 1/4" blob or less of the compound on and rub it into the body panel that you are working on...hood, roof etc. It works on friction so give it a little quick rub. once it starts to dry up you are about done. Then take a clean rag and buff it off. You will be amazed the very first time you do this with stage 1 coarse. Then you will be even more amazed when you realize you have 2 more stages to do.<br />
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Stage 2 takes out the scratches left behind from stage 1...stage 3 takes out the scratches left behind from stage 2. After stage 3...this thing will look pretty damn awesome and you can move on to putting a few coats of your favorite liquid wax.<br />
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Remember that the compound is a sanding tool. You can over use it and burn through the clear coat. When you are compounding you are taking a fine layer of clear coat off.<br />
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I have burned through my clear coat by mistake and damaged the color coat. I also have fixed the area by laying on a small amount of the color with a fine brush in the area damaged...then after it dried a day or so gave the part a few coats of clear and started over. If you do it right its pretty undetectable even from up close. <br />
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<u><i><b>Conclusion</b></i></u><br />
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There was no way I could cover every scenario or variable you might encounter on your next or first build. I did hit all the highlights. As I progress through my next few car builds and develop or adopt any new techniques I will update this article to include the latest information.<br />
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The biggest tool you will need is patients. You must allow time for color and clear coats to dry as I have suggested. If you rush at any stage of your build you will screw things up and have to start over. If at any point you find yourself making mistakes or getting frustrated it is time to take a break and step away from the workbench.<br />
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Take your time and have fun.<br />
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Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-78946287089113478742017-11-17T13:01:00.003-05:002019-02-14T12:46:37.207-05:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5774395301385885603" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>So unfortunately the last layout had to be deconstructed just over a year ago...We decided to move the homestead. Honestly If I had known that was going to happen within 4 years of building it I wouldn't have but that's the way it goes sometimes. I think we have a good 20+ years at this location so we are back in the game baby. The only thing salvageable from the old layout which you can find the design in a previous post is the yard area...which transported mostly in tact. I haven't laid out all the sidings and switch tracks because i have not given them much thought yet. The yard track work is incomplete on the design but you get the idea.....Working on the room now....the goal is to get started on the benchwork Sept 2018.....ok...that didn't happen...sept 2020?</div>
Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-3692350542609974452017-11-01T12:20:00.002-04:002017-11-01T12:20:59.317-04:00 Selector Plate instead of a Yard Ladder<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Selector Plate instead of a Yard Ladder</h2>
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I found this article in my facebook feed from MRH...it is such a great idea I had to share this with you guys....enjoy!</div>
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<span class="submitted">— Dwhitten</span>
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<a href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/082.jpg" height="320" style="height: 1076px; width: 720px;" width="214" /></a>
Well here it goes! I'm going to try and explain how I used a "Selector
Plate" instead of using switches in my staging yard. I found this
technique works well to save money, time and space. Lets face
it....turnouts are expensive! One benefit is that all staging tracks
are of the same length and you can space the tracks any way you want.<br />
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On the East End of my layout I have a 5 track staging yard.<br />
I first started out by using a single piece of Atlas Code 100
flextrack. The "plate" itself is made out of 1/4 inch luan Plywood. And
is roughly the same height as my roadbed. I cut the plywood down to
shape and drill a hole for the pivot opposite of the staging yard.<br />
For the track leading up to the selector plate I left the outside
rail normal and filed the inside rail to a point. (roughly 1" but it
will depend on the amount of swing of the plate)<br />
On the "point rail" I soldered an Atlas rail joiner to hold the rail of
the selector plate. I soldered the joiner from the inside of the rail
so be sure to keep it clear of the wheel flanges!<br />
For the track on the selector plate. I left the outside
rail normal and soldered it straight to the approach track on
the layout.<br />
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The inside rail will "slide" in the rail joint<br />
<img alt="" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/074.jpg" height="405" style="height: 405px; width: 720px;" width="720" /><br />
The selector plate itself is held in place by a pivot opposite of the
staging yard. For this i simply used a 1/4" bolt and left it loose
enough for the plate to swing.<br />
<img alt="" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/093.jpg" height="408" style="height: 408px; width: 230px;" width="230" /><br />
At the end where the Selector plate meets the staging yard I used
pieces of Atlas Rerailers to keep everything lined up. And to safe
guard against derailments! (however the author stated in a comment to this article that you should use at least a 50% section of the rerailer instead of a 33% section as he did in this case)<br />
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The track on the selector plate is not glued in place. It is free to
move and is only held in place by the glue under the section
of rerailer.<br />
<img alt="" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/092.jpg" height="405" style="height: 405px; width: 720px;" width="720" /><br />
<img alt="" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/089.jpg" height="405" style="height: 405px; width: 720px;" width="720" /><br />
<img alt="" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/067.jpg" height="404" style="height: 404px; width: 720px;" width="720" /><br />
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The selector plate has been very reliable over the last few years and is very easy to maintain!<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Dwhitten/071.jpg" height="405" style="height: 405px; width: 720px;" width="720" /></div>
Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-20285010168265748502014-01-14T10:00:00.002-05:002014-02-02T20:22:31.817-05:00How to convert your HO passenger car to Knuckle-Kadee type-Couplers<br>
Many of us love the Passenger cars made by brands like AHM, Riverossi, Concor and a few others. They all have truck mounted couplers which allow for tighter turning clearances. Their price point for what you get is perfect. Some of these guys are not in production anymore but can be found all over ebay and at train shows. You are going to pay about 20 bucks a car vs 80+ for new age Walthers passenger cars. Mind you the new stuff has a lot of bells and whisltes but to run a 5-10 passenger car consist is more than my car payment.<br>
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These older style passenger cars come with the truck mounted dreaded horn hook sytle couplers. That wont do. Even for beginners or children the Kadee type knuckle couplers are easier and well lets face it just look 1000% better. Kadee makes a number 508 coupler that comes with a conversion shank <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkSK3huc7A-m3y5K6dK6uQER_JinXK0vyiEgbfhLXGyVgqf9qy_Med9q_PygsP4fSlO17DbwyV39ZYeEEI_2Zw_aFb8m9LuH7r1nA9q7-6qPZ1Ue7JgvvBhD158hgpBbWfudS7RsMqVk/s1600/kadee+508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkSK3huc7A-m3y5K6dK6uQER_JinXK0vyiEgbfhLXGyVgqf9qy_Med9q_PygsP4fSlO17DbwyV39ZYeEEI_2Zw_aFb8m9LuH7r1nA9q7-6qPZ1Ue7JgvvBhD158hgpBbWfudS7RsMqVk/s1600/kadee+508.jpg"></a></div>
that you can use to convert the horn hook to their coupler. However the conversion is very very time consuming and difficult. I have done it with moderate success. it always takes a lot of fussing and sanding of car bodies for clearance and you must cut sections of the truck apart..use small screws to mount their shank to the truck and dont forget about the glue when you make a mistake and crack the truck....its a mess. I love the all metal Kadee couplers but their process is just not for me.<br>
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I am not sure what hole I was in but my only excuse was that it has been many, many years since I had to worry about this conversion of a horn hook to a knuckle coupler but I came across a fantastic solution. <br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ETydTC5u-Ij5L6Hv9ppk5LFXfPnqZul4RIx1lQRMH70Qi8PkoqFcAfdMgxkb7I9WhnpAlkLyQ0j-EWLgGs5lVn9iXJkn1LGkV4Y0rm4cjMv9q69oCUFRRNimh7KipZduvavw6iIhXFg/s1600/MCH52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ETydTC5u-Ij5L6Hv9ppk5LFXfPnqZul4RIx1lQRMH70Qi8PkoqFcAfdMgxkb7I9WhnpAlkLyQ0j-EWLgGs5lVn9iXJkn1LGkV4Y0rm4cjMv9q69oCUFRRNimh7KipZduvavw6iIhXFg/s200/MCH52.jpg" height="200" title="McHenry #52 Coupler" width="200"></a>McHenry Couplers. They have a long shank and snap right in where the horn hook does and has an operating knuckle coupler at the business end. They make different lengths depending on which truck you have. For a 4 wheel truck on most concor or other cars you need the longest MCH 52 for the shorter 6 wheel trucks or the RPO cars that have trucks closer to the end of the car body the MCH 53 will do.<br>
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Right now they are tough to find but I did find a source for the Mchenry #52 on ebay. This is by far the easiest way to convert a passenger car to a Knuckle type or what many just call a Kadee coupler. They are compatible with Kadee and other Knuckle couplers.<br>
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Enjoy those passenger cars...I love that older stuff!Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-90467486044966042882013-12-02T13:52:00.003-05:002013-12-02T14:00:48.166-05:00Status of Model Train Layout & quick product reviewI have completed laying the track for stage one and most of the track for stage 2 of my HO model train layout.<br />
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Stage one was the main lines around the room basically on a shelf. stage two is the yard and turntable in the middle. The "parking lot" with 5 long staging areas on the top side of the yard through to the turntable is laid and the switch machines are installed. The bottom half of the yard where the real work can be done with rolling stock is not laid because Atlas once again has virtually no product in the country...we hear January 2014. This design was my 9th rendition using the AnyRail software that I truly Loved! It allows the most amount of free space in the room while still getting in what I want in the layout. The door into the room is the greyed out area bottom left and the door to the mechanical room is in the top right greyed area which also shaped my design. Stage 3 will be the upper section located in the blank area top left. You can see the feeder incline wrapping around the bottom left of the yard. This section will have what ever industry I can work in, should be a few nice sidings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispjZw6m4CZz5w9WjgG3Q43Q7Jvb3N6I5L0qQefru5t5KSroHhSyPFyYqyjwtDZ_532Y1qg-SmY6K2sn7Vt40E4L6ok4bhN4wyS79xPYFa0tgeEfK-9jocYBYvzAGe5pEY9E-18clGpbM/s1600/beginnings+of+control+panel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispjZw6m4CZz5w9WjgG3Q43Q7Jvb3N6I5L0qQefru5t5KSroHhSyPFyYqyjwtDZ_532Y1qg-SmY6K2sn7Vt40E4L6ok4bhN4wyS79xPYFa0tgeEfK-9jocYBYvzAGe5pEY9E-18clGpbM/s200/beginnings+of+control+panel.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Control Panel starting to take shape</td></tr>
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Since I only use Atlas custom line switch tracks and there are none available I have put down my track laying hammer and picked up my soldering iron. I have begun working on the control panel, mounting and wiring the power blocks and switch machine control toggles . I have installed Circuitron's Tortoise switch machines and they were a breeze to install. I priced a few items out and they are a decent deal. Although you have to search for the best price on the internet and go with a 12 pack. They have 2 features that make them the best I have ever used. First is they are a self contained unit mount and all. that's right you do not purchase a separate mount which helps on the budget and ease of install. Second is the adjustable fulcrum built into the unit. It allows an easier install because you can adjust away slight miss alignments with the fulcrum. <br />
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I will check back in when a bit more progress has been made.<br />
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<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-32964244019036573052012-12-28T07:59:00.000-05:002013-12-02T13:56:23.216-05:00Atlas Deluxe Under the Table Switch Machine # 66<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcjD0HL6e7gD2qsJEeZ7XMRUXVINGQlueXejmvfZb4t1Fit9Q_cVIFSc-gAi0tV4O1-tesRmt_Kw15CA04uxT0V92h7g0YGxRFLWgiTYbpW3EaEcQ0D2UwhrdksgtFqiOI83UyqPmN-8/s1600/deluxe+switch+machine+66.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcjD0HL6e7gD2qsJEeZ7XMRUXVINGQlueXejmvfZb4t1Fit9Q_cVIFSc-gAi0tV4O1-tesRmt_Kw15CA04uxT0V92h7g0YGxRFLWgiTYbpW3EaEcQ0D2UwhrdksgtFqiOI83UyqPmN-8/s320/deluxe+switch+machine+66.GIF" width="320" /></a></div>
I have completed Stage 1 of my HO Model Train Layout. (See my previous post on my <a href="http://www.modeltrainsandthings.com/2012/11/ho-train-layout-design.html" target="_blank">Layout Design</a> for more details.) Trains are running while I work out the kinks in my track work and the room in general. For the switch tracks in this stage I used the Atlas #66 Deluxe under the table switch machine here is my review.<br />
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<b>Why?</b> I used this item because I wanted something simple and cheap. You can't get simpler or cheaper for an under table switch machine. Since I also used the nicer custom Atlas switch tracks that have metal non powered frogs I would have needed their snap relay #200 along with their standard switch machine to power the frogs and/or signals when the track is switched from one position to the other. This Deluxe machine incorporates a double pole double throw relay like the #200. Simple.<br />
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The instructions that come with the unit are a bit vague, but do have a few wiring diagrams that cover a few scenarios. So if you can read a diagram you are covered on how to wire it. However, It doesn't go over how to physically install the unit well enough. I found this troubling especially for anyone who was a first timer. I however, have done this a few times and went right at it.<br />
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<b>Instillation.</b> This is where the unit falls short. It doesn't work at all if you install it with the throw bar directly centered below the hole in the switch track. (as is the only advice in the instructions) The vertical section of the throw bar is a piece of stiff metal wire. As you can see in the picture above the horizontal arm of the throw bar is plastic. I have a 7/8" thick wood sub road bed then the standard 1/4" cork road bed below the track. That distance is within the units specs. However, the plastic horizontal arm bends under pressure (under the pressure of the air around it it seems) and never moves the points far enough. After some testing if the unit was directly below the track (no roadbed whatsoever- which is not a situation that would ever happen in real life this was just a test) it would work fine.<br />
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I did come up with a fix.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atlas #66 Throw bar & unit off center</td></tr>
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Instead of installing the unit with the throw bar directly centered under the connection in the points, I off centered it just a bit and cocked the unit to the side. I stuck the vertical throw up through the hole in the points then moved the machine around (all the while flipping the switch by hand trying to find a spot where it did work) until i felt that plastic arm flex because of the nature of being off centered. This created a fulcrum point between the track and the horizontal arm. The plastic arm flexed or had a load on it. The vertical section of the throw bar actually rubs against the side of the hole in the sub road bed (fulcrum point). To the eye it looked weird but I found a sweet spot where thanks to my fulcrum it had enough power to move the points back and forth. This was a ton of trial and error, but works perfectly. Notice in the picture the black plastic horizontal throw bar flexed. Again when you look at this thing honestly it doesn't look like it should work...but it does every time. Also of note the machine was not centered below the rails it was cocked off center. That's just where the sweet spot was move it an 1/16" either way and it doesn't work.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrj-OBrzwRGW9enscRqzSKGGn6M8nL8SnkbU3HkUzIK4NOyKvg6iG_kmA0ygpjv6yUypCmsvgoN4_BQK86NR-s_e4s-7VttZMFxquhmXR_xhqdajvuOJD8JQNQtCcsA49VkxB1NJ5sX4/s1600/A+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrj-OBrzwRGW9enscRqzSKGGn6M8nL8SnkbU3HkUzIK4NOyKvg6iG_kmA0ygpjv6yUypCmsvgoN4_BQK86NR-s_e4s-7VttZMFxquhmXR_xhqdajvuOJD8JQNQtCcsA49VkxB1NJ5sX4/s200/A+028.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atlas #66 plastic throw bar flexed</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I repeated this procedure 5 more times and was done. The first one took a while the rest were quick. I will admit you almost needed 4 hands to do it cause once you found that sweet spot holding the unit in place while trying to get some small screws in the mounting holes without having it move on you was a challenge.<br />
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Once I figured out the fix, she works great. My situation with 7/8" sub road bed is not unique. What was Atlas thinking? Use this product only if you are willing to use my "secret" instillation technique.<br />
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*****************quick update**************<br />
avoid using this product if at all possible (clearance issues) go with Circuitron's Tortoise switch machine they are so easy to install and only a few bucks more if you are a savy shopper and by them by the dozen. They dont "snap" when switched but move quite fast enough)<br />
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Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-34698703295703296662012-11-26T10:48:00.002-05:002012-12-31T10:34:05.894-05:00HO Flextrack Shortage<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeq5UEfwK2Ja9XlteWrlWdbpyLwgwid56IyshaqZmfd1L0mZpeNBq0_qFm-El2E-vW9mfDMlzihKo2d_-0ok6zm7x3aO1h2mHfFJ9ei-V1AhIaprjxQFNGsv2IYq2BzKzp-nUanHxiEE/s1600/flex+track.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeq5UEfwK2Ja9XlteWrlWdbpyLwgwid56IyshaqZmfd1L0mZpeNBq0_qFm-El2E-vW9mfDMlzihKo2d_-0ok6zm7x3aO1h2mHfFJ9ei-V1AhIaprjxQFNGsv2IYq2BzKzp-nUanHxiEE/s1600/flex+track.bmp" /></a>Are you looking for HO Flextrack? The most popular is manufactured by Atlas and short of a 5 pack here and there I bet you can't find any. Back in april 2012 on the Atlas website forums the notion was spread that there would be a disruption in supply. That disruption has turned into an outright shortage.<br />
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I was told by a local supplier that the story on the track shortage has to do with moving product lines from one mfg plant in china to another. I know from experience in my industry that such a thing takes a lot of time. The new china plant will make run after run of bad product before getting it right. I am not sure if the track has hit the water yet on its way to us but Atlas tells my supplier that they will have it before the years end. Their website says they were do in a container the begging of November 2012.<br />
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I find it interesting that right after the mention of the track shortage Atlas decided to put an end to their Forums on their website. They are there in archive mode only, you can't add anymore posts. Yes forums are expensive to run but did they just want to avoid all the negative messages about their own products not being available? <br />
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The scoop I heard was that when the plants in china were being realigned Atlas got left out. Someone was not paying attention to what was happening. This is what disrupted their supply chain. Hopefully they have everything worked out...Cause I love using their track!<br />
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ps as of the end of Dec 2012 I hear they got in some track...but that most of it sold right out...good luck..I got mine! Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-18042412281669112232012-11-19T14:14:00.000-05:002012-11-26T10:04:23.694-05:00How to Lay Cork Roadbed on a Model Train LayoutOnce you have decided your track plan and have built your model layout's structure (sub roadbed) it's time to lay some roadbed. Do not lay your track right down on the wood. This is a big no no. I know you want to run some trains but this hobby requires some patients. It doesn't matter what scale you are modeling in you need roadbed below your rails.<br />
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Roadbed simulates ballast that every real railroad track has in the real world. It elevates the track just a bit from the surrounding area just like in real life. It also provides a bit of sound proofing during operation. This soundproofing can go a long way especially if you are modeling in O scale or your typical Lionel set up.<br />
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There are a few different items out there for roadbed these days. Some come on a roll and are self adhesive, others are made of vinyl and come in strips. I find the traditional cork roadbed made by Midwest Products to be the best. <br />
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The cork is easily shaped & cut and conforms to your model train layout's curves perfectly. Each 3' strip comes with a perforation down the middle. You need to split each piece apart and flip the sections over so that the bevel side is to the outside of the rails like this /--\ . If you do not do this then it will be harder to lay your roadbed around curves and it will leave a square edge to each side of your rails which will not look realistic at all. You can leave the roadbed square if you are laying it in a yard or siding where you want to butt a few pieces together, otherwise lay the bevel edges to the outside.<br />
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You need to draw the center line for your rail lines in the area where you are laying your roadbed. This center line will act as your guide for where to place your cork sections. Use your favorite carpenters wood glue and run a small bead about a 1/4" to each side of your center line. Do this in 3' sections at a time. Take 1 piece of the roadbed and lay it down one side of the center line along the furthest side from you. Make sure the bevel end is furthest from you or to the outside of the rails and that the square end is right along the center line mark. If you are conforming this to a curve you will have to pin your cork down as you go or use some small track nails or tacks along the way to keep the curve true to your center line. If your center line is straight you will notice you need very little pinning or tacking.<br />
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Once you have the furthest half of the road bed in place do the same with the closest side. You will notice that as the carpenters glue is still wet you can slide the roadbed around a bit (unless you tack it). this is good and bad. It helps you line everything up but also allows you to in inadvertently lean on the roadbed and shift it out of place...take care not to lean on wet roadbed!<br />
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Repeat for the rest of your layout. It is a little time consuming but the finished product looks so much better with roadbed then without. You will really be happy with the results. After you lay 2 or 3 pieces you will figure out a few tricks to laying it straight and get a handle on how much glue to use and where you need to tack it in place till it dries.Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-6826097083215292182012-11-09T13:54:00.001-05:002012-11-09T13:54:23.116-05:00Ho Train layout DesignHere is the latest version of my Ho Train Layout. It's a 2 main line, shelf layout around in a 11'x16' room. The yard (at the top) is below the main lines and the loop in the center of the room is used to gain the height needed to get up and down from the main lines. It is a tough room to navigate. The entrance door is the grey area bottom left of the diagram. The mechanical room is the grey area near the top right of the drawing both will have lift out sections. I also need enough room to replace items in the mechanical room if needed so there needs to be a clear path from entrance door to mechanical room.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_facgOKbW3TLKTZNVpvV9hLonibhv30OC3xjlxGuBirzD1mM9d23wSJXPbUiL6xaprYuUBR6NhWjDeiEnAfgOey5yl4KkCrOemGEKtusIQ9P0-Gg_dl6HM3HI4LRMdMm07evvKzag7oQ/s1600/Pat's+layout+version+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_facgOKbW3TLKTZNVpvV9hLonibhv30OC3xjlxGuBirzD1mM9d23wSJXPbUiL6xaprYuUBR6NhWjDeiEnAfgOey5yl4KkCrOemGEKtusIQ9P0-Gg_dl6HM3HI4LRMdMm07evvKzag7oQ/s640/Pat's+layout+version+5.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
I have started stage 1 which is building the shelf around the room. The idea is to get both main lines running first then finish prepping the room, lighting, power etc. I need to be able to run some trains man! Stage 2 will be the yard and center loop, stage 3 will be the turntable and branch line (inside the loop). Once stage 3 is running I will develop some sort of scenery plan that will buffer the center loop from the back side of the room. This will give the layout some depth and make you walk around back to see everything. Where as this design is not complicated, it's nothing fancy it gets me the access I need in the room and will serve the need to run some trains.Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-47495262637778948812012-06-18T08:46:00.000-04:002012-06-18T08:53:06.736-04:00 <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tamiya BullHead R/c Truck</td></tr>
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So this past week I decided to dust off my R/C car & truck and get them back to operational. A good cleaning, a few bolts tightened and they were ready. Actually I needed a few new body mounts for my car so that remained on the shelf. I did get the BullHead out in the yard for a few spins. Since my Batteries have been laying for a few years the run times were pretty low. I am hoping that with a few more charge discharge cycles they get back to normal otherwise new batteries end up setting you back quite a few bucks.<br />
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As I was looking around for some tune up/spruce up parts for my truck I found out something very interesting. I am apparently a trend setter! I built this truck 20 years ago. its been discontinued for 10-15 years. Well Tamiya is re releasing the BullHead (and clod buster) this summer and it should be available late august.<br />
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For those of you not familiar with the BullHead it is a clod buster with a different body. This is fantastic news. First off it is a top notch truck. The parts are very well made. (It only comes as a kit, I consider it an advanced build. 20 years ago it took me 12 hours and I would bet it would be the same today.) Secondly I could use a few replacement body parts. Mostly the chrome items you see in the picture. When I used to race the truck in a mixed class race I ran over a few smaller off road buggies which often resulted in a flip over situation so the roll bar and exhaust stacks have some wear. Searching for those parts right now yeilded little results and those that I did find were expensive. The re-release should fix that.<br />
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I long ago made up a battery cable that allowed me to use 2, 6 cell Battery packs at once for longer run times. This is a must do remember this thing has 2 motors where most cars only have 1. I am also going to upgrade the manual speed control to an electronic version. Which by the way Tamiya's new BullHead kit has the electronic speed control standard.<br />
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Now go out and get an R/C car or truck and have some fun!Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-11330956879579088162012-03-28T09:20:00.000-04:002012-03-28T09:20:45.514-04:00How to make Model Train Layout Rocks and Cliffs<br />
I have covered how to make <a href="http://www.modeltrainsandthings.com/2012/01/model-train-layout-mountains-tunnels.html" target="_blank">mountains and valleys in previous article</a>. You now have to start working on your rock outcroppings and vertical cliffs. You should have built their basic location into your mountain/terrain design-Nooks for rock outcroppings and the structure for vertical cliffs. If you didn’t there is nothing stopping you from adding them now you just need to be more creative. You can add some more plaster cloth on top of what you have in a way to create more vertical surfaces or to create a natural nook for a rock outcropping. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkT94CuaykzalnuU9ncb6wOC44768XYC4o8U582z0bM-KrlVh0C8iX0lML9HbI7eFwXtcyChO65Hkszs_h6RA2gn6302cAmEoha-x4BxOVas5uzyj9exTQ4uuWCHNGS_x1V-X-Cu5D57M/s1600/plaster+rock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" dea="true" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkT94CuaykzalnuU9ncb6wOC44768XYC4o8U582z0bM-KrlVh0C8iX0lML9HbI7eFwXtcyChO65Hkszs_h6RA2gn6302cAmEoha-x4BxOVas5uzyj9exTQ4uuWCHNGS_x1V-X-Cu5D57M/s320/plaster+rock.jpg" width="320" /></a>I always liked making plaster casts of large rocks and placing them around the layout as I needed. Nowadays you can buy them ready made. I have done it the old fashioned way and made rubber molds from some cool rock features out in the garden. Each mold around 6-8 inches in diameter. You buy the mold making material and follow the directions by applying a bunch of coats to the surface you are molding. My rubber molds are a bit more flexible than the store bought type which is good and bad. I use 2 techniques for rocks. Pour the plaster in the mold and let it set. Then plaster or glue them into place around the layout in different combinations and orientations. The second is to only let the plaster set half way so that it is still flexible in the mold. Then quickly invert the mold onto the mountain surface you wish the rock detail to appear. If you ever put a 5 gallon water bottle on top of a water cooler you replicate that exact concept here. Once inverted, press the mold down and around the contours of the mountain. Do not squish out all the plaster you want it to be in the mold taking on the mold’s “look”. Once hard but not completely set you can peel the mold off. What you did was leave all the rock “look” from the mold but contoured it to the mountain you made. So now you can have a limitless amount of different rock/cliff shapes with only a few molds. For large rock faces just overlap each mold. There will be a seam however you can either carve the plaster to make it look like to rocks fracturing together or hide the seam with vegetation/vines/weeds. By the way it’s always easier to carve the plaster before it’s completely set.</div>
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When all your rock work is done and dry a few days you can then stain the plaster to the color of your liking. Get yourself some acrylic tubes of paint. Some greens, some browns, and a black. Squirt a dime sized drop into a plastic cup of water and mix well. Then cut a sponge to fit the cup. Please practice on some plaster that you will be painting or covering with ground foam first. Sponge on the darker colors then right on top of them while still wet the lighter colors. The plaster soaks in only so much stain so you have to get a feel for it. Use some real life examples and try to replicate the colors. Darker in the crevices lighter in the weather exposed surfaces. It actually is easier than it sounds.</div>
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You can purchase all sorts of readymade rocks and rock sheets. Depending on your layout and the look you are going for some of these products will be perfect for you, none of them are cheap if you need a lot of them. You will have to figure out how to blend them into your layout so they don’t look store bought and out of place and the plaster technique I describe above is a great way to blend them in.</div>
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When all your rocks are stained you can move onto making your mountains and terrain come alive by <a href="http://www.modeltrainsandthings.com/2012/03/how-to-add-grass-and-bushes-to-your.html" target="_blank">adding grass and bushes</a>.<br />
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<br /></div>Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-46630928261535759102012-03-01T10:28:00.000-05:002012-03-01T10:28:59.173-05:00How to add grass and bushes to your train layoutIn a previous article I explained how to make mountains and valleys. <a href="http://www.modeltrainsandthings.com/2012/01/model-train-layout-mountains-tunnels.html" target="_blank">Click here to view that article.</a> Once you have them you need to make them come alive. You will have to add ground cover, grass and brush or bushes. Otherwise all you have is a big white plaster mountain! Unless you have rolling hills you need to start thinking about clifs, boulders, & rocks. We will cover rock outcroppings in another article but they should be dealt with before adding your base ground foam to the area.<br />
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First realize that grass grows on flat or near flat surfaces. So leave it off of verticle clifs. Weeds or vines like to grow up vertical surfaces. Bushes tend to cluster at the bottom of rocks or trees or around other bushes or berms. I strictly use woodland scenics “ground cover” products for all my landscaping needs. That is not a commercial trust me they aren’t sending me any checks. They just make some great stuff.<br />
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Start with the finest turf material. You will need some grass, weeds, dirt. They have different shades of grass for instance; I would get them all and then use what you need where you need it or blend it for a custom look. Also get yourself a shaker bottle. You are going to want to mix the ground cover together like a painter does on his pallet to make the colors you want and then you can simply shake it out over the area you are working on.<br />
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I like to layer the darkest colors on first which is usually dirt and then work in the lighter colors on top this way the dark bleeds through where you want it to if you only go over it lightly with a top coat. Once you have your grass/weeds down you have to start thinking texture. They have medium and rough grades of the turf ground cover so you can shake on some texture, don’t forget to use different colors to contrast the base coat. All the same color is boring.<br />
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Use bits and pieces of their Foliage clusters to make the basic shape of your bushes. Cluster them together or around other objects for realism. Then you can shake on some fine or medium turf to give them some depth and or color.<br />
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Use their straight foliage to create viney bushes or vertical hanging weeds or even underbrush. This stuff comes in a mat form that you can pull and stretch how you like. I Use this stuff a lot for various applications.<br />
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Once you have this stuff in front of you and work with it for a while you will be able to mix and match the products to get all sorts of different feels and looks to your scenery. Remember the world isn’t perfect and contains lots of colors and textures.<br />
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You are going to glue all of it down with a typical carpenter’s wood glue. Dilute the glue enough to be able to brush it on thick for your base coat. You can use it straight to glue on your bush clusters. Then dilute it to the consistency of milk to put it in a spray bottle to go over the entire area to lock things in place.<br />
<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-77652926274015933652012-02-07T07:00:00.002-05:002023-01-04T13:39:36.468-05:007 big mistakes made when assembling a model train layout building kitNo model train layout is complete without buildings and different structures. Some kits assemble easy and don’t require a lot of fussing while others require all sorts of modifications or tweaking to get the parts to fit together. Weather the kit is expensive or considered a cheapo building you can find good and bad kits across the spectrum. However, great technique yields great buildings and amazing structures.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheap building kit</td></tr>
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<i>Quick tip …You can save some money using cheaper less detailed kits in spots of your layout that are not quite in direct view or are not close to the viewer. Save the more expensive detailed kits for the up close and in your face structures.</i><br />
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<u><b><span style="font-size: large;">First</span></b> </u>big mistake modelers make is snapping the parts off the plastic trees with your fingers. I know it’s real tempting but it yields a high percentage of broken parts and usually leaves a divot in the building part that you then have to fix later. Use a pair of nipping or diagonal cutting pliers to cut the parts off the tree. If there isn’t enough clearance use your exacto knife just be careful you need all your fingers.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Second</u> </span></b>big mistake is using the wrong type or too much glue. I like to use a CA glue, super glue type, paired with an accelerator. Like zap and their zap kicker. But any brand will do. In fact these days at the local hardware store you can pick up a few different ones to try and then use the one you like. Some come in a runny, loose consistency and others are designed to be thicker for gap filling. This stuff bonds to your skin instantly, trust me. Regular plastic model cement doesn’t bond to your skin but takes forever to dry.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Third</u></span></b> big mistake results in foggy or glue ridden windows. All of your windows need plastic glazing weather the kit comes with them or not. I save all packaging that has clear, flat, flexible plastic from items I buy. I then use it to glaze the windows of my buildings. It is real easy to get extra glue on to the clear plastic leaving behind a fog or even a finger print. Less is more here with the glue you are using and remember to take your time. Do not use ca glue or the accelerant on the clear plastic it can fog it up. I apply canopy glue to the frame it dries clear and wont fog up but takes a while to dry.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building without an interior</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Fourth</u> </span></b>big mistake is leaving your buildings empty. All the stores on Main Street can’t be empty at once. Add people and pets and counters and shelves etc where appropriate. Many of these items are available on the net for purchase but don’t be afraid to get some plastic and start fabricating. I have found items in the scrapbooking isle to use in my model stores.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Fifth</u></span></b> big mistake is either weathering (making your models look old and dilapidated) too much or too little. Go down any city or suburban street. All of the buildings aren’t brand new, with perfect paint jobs and new siding. And frankly there are very few sections of town that have buildings that are all falling apart. Most streets have a combination of new and old. Remember that when you are painting and weathering your building kits. It may look good to the eye to have a perfect paint job on the kit you are assembling. However, when you put all of your buildings together on your model train layout perfection just sticks out like a sore thumb.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Sixth</u></span></b> big mistake is keeping things time period perfect. If you are modeling the 1950’s you can have buildings that were built in the early 1900’s even from the 1890’s and they will work. However you can’t have an all glass shiny office building jammed in there among your 1950’s brick ones either.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><u>Seventh</u></span></b> big mistake is thinking you have to use the entire building kit as described in the instructions. If you are making background buildings and it doesn’t fit in the corner well cut the building to fit around the corner. Depending on view and obstructions a lot of times know one will know. Also feel free to combine kits or kit bash, different buildings together to get the look you want.<br />
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Experiment with different kit manufacturers. Find what works for you. Don’t be afraid of working outside the box or beyond the assembly instructions. Remember you are creating the world as you see fit. Like a painter uses paint on a canvass use buildings, structures, and other scenery to make your world come alive.<br />
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Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-16268686388543771612012-01-30T09:27:00.000-05:002012-11-09T14:09:11.711-05:00What are the Model Train Scales<br />
There are many different scales or gauges of Model Trains. They all have their pros and cons. There are 2 main differences. The first and most obvious would be the size or ratio of difference between the real life train and its model. An HO scale locomotive is 87 times smaller than its real life counterpart or said conversely the real life steam locomotive is 87 times bigger than its HO scale model. The second main difference would be availability of product sold commercially. The more product out there on the market the less expensive the hobby overall could be. The more product available the less you have to scratch build from raw materials etc, etc.<br />
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Today's most popular model train scales. There are others but these are the heavy hitters.<br />
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Name Size <br />
G Scale 1:32<br />
O Scale 1:48<br />
On30 Scale 1:48 (O Scale running on HO track)<br />
S Scale 1:64<br />
HO Scale 1:87<br />
N Scale 1:148<br />
Z Scale 1:220<br />
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<br /><a href="http://15d998166r9x8l37t3lnx1v9f8.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_top"></a>Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-37793761962081089422012-01-28T06:00:00.000-05:002012-11-09T14:09:24.630-05:00How to buy trains on EBay<br />
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One cold Sunday afternoon years ago I was walking out of a Model Train Show (flea market) in Dover, NJ with my father and we were passing some of the vendors’ vehicles in the parking lot on the way to our car. This was before EBay was a household name. One of their vans had a bumper sticker that read “He who dies with the most trains wins!” There isn’t one model train enthusiast that wouldn’t get a chuckle out of that. If it’s your goal to fulfill the mantra of that bumper sticker or if you are looking for that weird out of production piece or heck even something brand new to the market EBay is a great resource. My father proclaims that EBay killed the local train show (and has a lecture stating so ready at a moment’s notice). He might very well be right. Fact is the online marketplace isn’t going anywhere so I figured I would share some of my tricks with you-and I won’t tell him if you won’t.</div>
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You need to have an EBay and PayPal account, and since you found us here at Model Trains and Things I am going to assume you are internet friendly and will leave out all the basic keystrokes.</div>
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Let’s start with an example of an item you are looking for to complete a collection, a proto 2000 Lehigh Valley fa2 locomotive. The first step is to put that exact, long phrase into the search box. It is a very specific search term. If you see anything resembling what you like, note the item numbers or add the items to your watch list. You can go to your watch list later and compare. EBay also now has a shopping cart where you can put all the items you like and compare later. This first salvo using the most descriptive item search only takes care of items listed for sale properly. Most people stop here. That would be a HUGE mistake that might cost you hundreds or thousands of dollars over time.<br />
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Now the fun begins. This is where simply buying a train on ebay becomes an art form. Now you begin to start searching for items that are really a proto 2000 Lehigh Valley fa2 locomotive, but that have been listed improperly or without all the specifics like the road name or proper manufacture name etc. What you have to remember is not everybody selling trains even knows what they are. They may have inherited the stuff or got them in an estate sale or grabbed some from Tony at the diner who knows? Even if they are a train guy they may not be great EBayers. So you can’t count on them for describing the item perfectly or completely or even spelling the name right. I have found some real gems that were mal described in one fashion or another. Think about it if they aren’t described properly or with a lot of detail then how is someone finding it…luck and patients. So if it gets less traffic then you can win it at a cheaper bid price.<br />
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Using our example I would then search for proto 2000 fa2, then Lehigh valley fa2, then proto fa2, then proto 2000, then proto Lehigh Valley, then Lehigh valley locomotive etc. Start very specific then get more general with your searches. I always end up going 4-6 searches deep before giving up.<br />
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Now that you have found a bunch of listings for what you want to buy you have to start comparing. There are 2 basic ways people list items “buy it now” which is a one price take it or leave it or the typical auction. Honestly these days the gig is up on the auction listings and usually if a few people are bidding on an item it will go right up to the average selling price or above. If no one is paying attention or if the item isn’t easily found you might be able to get it at the starting bid price. <br />
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When you compare items make sure you can distinctly tell its condition. If it’s anything but new in the box stuff you want them to describe the item’s faults and show you them in the pictures. This way you can accurately figure the value of the item. Do not be afraid to ask the seller questions. You will want to note the sellers return policy if any and what their feedback score is. Don’t forget that shipping plays a huge part in the overall cost of the item.<br />
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Now that you are armed with a few of my tricks have at it. Add that hard to find out of production locomotive to your fleet at a low or below average price tag. If you are ever looking to sell any of your model trains (which I know is a sore subject around train guys) keep in mind all of my buying tips and your item will more than likely sell at an average or above number. Either way make sure you don’t tell my father about it or else be prepared for a stern talking to.<br />
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<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-56057534397253580912012-01-24T10:56:00.001-05:002012-11-09T14:09:37.960-05:00How to Solder connections on your Train Layout<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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People hear the word solder and many of them cringe with fear others think you need to be some long bearded wizzard or summoner of spirts to solder 2 wires together. It's actually not a hard skill to pick up. With a little practice you can be an expert well at least good enough to work on your model train layout. <br />
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<b>First</b> you need to make sure you have a high enough wattage soldering gun to do the job. Honestly unless you are soldering fine circuit board components go with a 200+ watt gun 250ish sounds nice to me.<br />
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<b>Second </b>Get a few replacement tips. The tips on a soldering gun are replaceable. Over time the tip wears away from working. You can usually buy different sizes to fit your gun and soldering job, smaller for finer work and larger for most applications. Get a variety to try out. <br />
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<i>Quick tip...Realize it takes a bit of time for the gun to heat up, for your joint to heat up, and for all items to cool down. </i><br />
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<b>Third</b> you need a roll of solder. Go for a Rosin Core roll. They usually come in different gauge get a couple and try a few out. Finer projects to better with a finer gauge solder.<br />
<b>Fourth</b> you need a soldering project. In the model train layout world your top 3 soldering tasks will be soldering wire to wire connections, rail joints, and wires on to the track for power connections. As you get more advanced and start working with a control panel or toggle switches you can add those finer jobs the list. <br />
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If you are a first timer for every scenario I would take some scrap pieces and try your technique until you are comfortable. This way you don’t make any mistakes to the real thing. The good news is if you don’t like the way a solder joint looks you can usually heat it back up and disconnect the items and start all over.<br />
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<b>Wire to wire connections.</b> If you can twist the ends of the wires you wish to connect together then I suggest doing it so that you do not need to hold the wires while soldering. Some jobs will not allow that to happen. In that case you have to use some sort of alligator clip, clothes pin type device to keep your wires close together. One of your hands needs to hold the gun and the other the solder so it makes it tough (not impossible) to hold the wires at the same time. Heat the gun up first until the tip easily melts your rosin core solder. Before you start to solder anything melt a little solder on to the gun’s tip. It helps conduct the heat to the application. Apply heat to the bare wires first to get their temperature up. Then slowly apply the solder if it doesn’t start to melt immediately remove it and wait a few more seconds for the area to heat up. When it’s ready it will slowly start to melt and you will see the wires soak in the solder like a sponge. If they don’t then they were not hot enough. Don’t glop the solder on it should flow nicely. Once soaked into the wires you’re done. The smaller the gauge of the wire the quicker this all happens. <br />
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<b>Rail Joints.</b> Remove any plastic ties right at the joint they may end up melting from the heat. You can reinstall them later. Apply the heat to one side of the rail and the solder to the other. Once everything is up to temp the solder will soak into the rail joint and be drawn toward the heat. Less is more. While the joint is still warm you can hit it with a sanding block to clean it up a bit. If you lay in too much solder you may find yourself having to file down your solder joint. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9i-oqdputPS8ZfGp3EZSOaAj0ahVrE535o1D2rRJrnKMBZLMG9wH6wYrcDRpSij_OJqqEHTXl64ZiBLSorKdb8sZlqIhNkAIV40b-3EaIyS84KtnIcpuFYUIfiVG5oMaXFLq-0qtRPpI/s1600/tinned+wire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9i-oqdputPS8ZfGp3EZSOaAj0ahVrE535o1D2rRJrnKMBZLMG9wH6wYrcDRpSij_OJqqEHTXl64ZiBLSorKdb8sZlqIhNkAIV40b-3EaIyS84KtnIcpuFYUIfiVG5oMaXFLq-0qtRPpI/s200/tinned+wire.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tinned Wire</td></tr>
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<b>Wire to rail.</b> In this case it works like a hybrid of the two situations above. I would first “tin” the wire. Heat it up and apply a small coat of solder to the wire first. Then I would tin the area on the rail where you intend to place the wire. I find that it works best to attach power wires at rail joints. Now that both the rail and the wire is tinned apply heat to the rail when the solder starts to melt touch the tinned wire to the spot and it should rather quickly melt as well, at that point you are done, but you have to hold the wire in place long enough for the solder to cool. This could be tricky and hot to the touch. Practice makes perfect.</div>
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<i>Quick Tip...The rules of gravity apply to solder it can drip off the solder joint like water from a faucet. Don't get caught underneath it!</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikddJZd9U0y1L_fuhKaUBMSoNXFXLrJs5xTi2j-1SWUa_X1HFE4jDM7AnuCFwuLlMJcZ3_jAZKyC02hFD3vkPJhBK4r3O0KzX_fTjemk8n0O4AF174pjn35SE87Evd2GmsQlNgNGgDSXM/s1600/heat+sink+tweazer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikddJZd9U0y1L_fuhKaUBMSoNXFXLrJs5xTi2j-1SWUa_X1HFE4jDM7AnuCFwuLlMJcZ3_jAZKyC02hFD3vkPJhBK4r3O0KzX_fTjemk8n0O4AF174pjn35SE87Evd2GmsQlNgNGgDSXM/s200/heat+sink+tweazer.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heat Sink Tweezers</td></tr>
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In all cases make sure you are in a comfortable position. Make sure that you are not under the soldering joint because sometimes hot solder tends to drip from the area. Make sure you are applying enough heat to the joint without destroying your surroundings (melting plastic ties or the insulation on the wire). In some cases you will want to use some sort of heat sink to stop the heat from traveling up your wire or rail beyond a certain point. An alligator clip will work as a heat sink or you could pick up a few heat sink tweezers to do the job. A quick tug after the joint has cooled should not be enough to seperate it. If it did you didn't get the right flow, do it again. Remember your joint and gun will remain hot well after your job is done.<br />
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Give it a shot, stop your cringing. You now have the basics needed to start soldering rail joints, and power connections on your model train layout. Practice practice practice, the more soldering joints you tackle the better at it you will become. See it wasn’t that hard.<br />
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<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-50178262217928046972012-01-18T09:52:00.000-05:002012-11-09T14:09:58.671-05:00How To make Model Train Layout Mountains & TerrainTrack plan designed, Benchwork is Built, Your subroadbed and Track is installed. You have quite a few hours of running time behind you and your trains run on your railroad without derailing. You have done a fantastic job. Now it's time to figure out how your model train layout's terrain is going to rise and fall as it twists and turns around your trackplan. <br />
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I like to "sort of" plan this out. When I design my track plan I only figure in a few key or signature elements like the highest and lowest points, where a major tunnel will be, or the biggest mountain etc etc. I like to leave the rest as sort of a - on the spot decision. You could call it the Bob Ross method " I think a happy little mountain lives here." You need to start with those signature, major spots that you preplanned out first. Then tailor the rest to your liking. F9QKKU9UKBZY<br />
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How do you make a mountain in the first place? (a valley or dip in the terrain is made the same way just opposite elevation) There are 2 main construction techniques. The traditional ridged frame and apron approach vs the foam board or light weight mountain method (using foam board insulation glued together to create the height or carved out for a valley).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYkpcuwpa1-qijiRqsOyk4-4LpX03BlHtavILhlS5sPEO5nNxGeBswp29uD3Qn3dGmURzHUwfn65xk4sa_X0kn8M5QfrkPk6uhYi-RvoyNhyf8jYGGitfejfhZAWE68SG8ArqB7MdJWM/s1600/mountain+cardboard+strip+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" kba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYkpcuwpa1-qijiRqsOyk4-4LpX03BlHtavILhlS5sPEO5nNxGeBswp29uD3Qn3dGmURzHUwfn65xk4sa_X0kn8M5QfrkPk6uhYi-RvoyNhyf8jYGGitfejfhZAWE68SG8ArqB7MdJWM/s1600/mountain+cardboard+strip+2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cardboard Strip Apron</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh14OPeKZI7LoLXmx70eS3M2VuU_daufFSvYyWALFrlM8vp8_rsD5b3taEz8zFjqStbcO30B9XP_WhlhS61ZmrgeJJhQG8J1X5lBsxpogu8Z6WiDL2Y4oaFHSsj5YpI430t8lpLBEwoc0A/s1600/mountain+wire+mesh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" kba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh14OPeKZI7LoLXmx70eS3M2VuU_daufFSvYyWALFrlM8vp8_rsD5b3taEz8zFjqStbcO30B9XP_WhlhS61ZmrgeJJhQG8J1X5lBsxpogu8Z6WiDL2Y4oaFHSsj5YpI430t8lpLBEwoc0A/s1600/mountain+wire+mesh.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire Mesh Apron</td></tr>
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In the traditional ridged frame way of constructing mountains you first mark out your peaks or bluffs with some sort of ridged frame. You would also want to declare where any railroad or auto tunnels would be located and build them in. You could used 1x2 wood jutting up from your benchwork, or fixed to the wall. Then you could connect some horizontal pieces if needed between your vertical supports. For a very large mountain on my fathers O scale model train layout we used electrical conduit pipe and bent it, using the proper bender, as needed to get the contours we wanted. Once the framework of the mountain is in place then you need to give it an apron. The first method of creating an apron is using cardboard strips and "basket weaving" an apron that you staple to your mountain's frame. The second method is using wire mesh or screen that you again staple to the framework. The apron should then fall between your highest points and look like a real life mountain. Sometimes it takes some prodding and pulling to get the look you want, but it will happen. Then take your plaster cloth or paper towels soaked in plaster and drape them over your apron.<br />
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The lightweight method is completely different. simply stack up enough foam insulation board to get the height gluing the pieces together with a <u>LOW</u> temp hot glue gun.(regular guns melt the foam) Then carve your peaks, bluffs, and valleys using a combination of a hot knife, your trusty exacto blade, and a wood rasp for contouring. I like the foam idea maybe cause I am tired of the old ridged way. To get started I would look at the Woodland scenics website they have a whole system (called subterrain layout system) where you can build your model train layout entirely of foam. They have all the nifty foam tools available as well. Before buying all your foam I would check your local building supply they have foam board insulation there that you can use for a lot of it. Once you have your shape down most folks still like working with plaster (stainable, carvable) and end up laying plaster over the foam in some way or another. Don't forget to box out your tunnels first and then put your mountain over them. By the way it doesn't have to be solid foam either depending on what type of scenery you are putting on the surface and its size you may be able to just make an outer core of foam leaving a big hollow in the middle or back side. That happens to be one of the great features of foam board it works vertically too.<br />
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When your plaster dries your mountain will have its base shape. If you don't like the way the apron fell you can add some more dimension to your mountain right on top to change the shape a bit. You could crumple up some newspaper or lay in some more cardboard strips then plaster soaked papertowels over the top and feather them in. Then you have to make it come alive with different rock outcroppings, stains, and the usuall turf and trees but that is a discussion for another day.<br />
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<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-79535022327762455202012-01-14T02:00:00.000-05:002012-11-09T14:10:13.953-05:00Model Train Layout BenchworkMost train folks when building a traditional model train layout go one of two ways, a flat table top supported by nothing much better than large saw horses or they build whats called benchwork. For beginners the table top might be the way to go, especially if the size isn't much more then 4'x8'. However, if you are building anything larger I suggest coming up with a plan to build some benchwork.<br />
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By the way, If you are building a modular or transportable model train layout then there is no choice, you have to build each section of benchwork to <a href="http://www.nmra.org/standards/modules/ms_intro.html">NMRA standards </a>so that they are compatible to all other modular sections you will encounter when you transport and show your model train layout.<br />
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I have had model train layouts of all types. From the loop around the Xmas tree, to the 4'x6' Murphy bed type, to the couple of 4'x8's slapped together, to the transportable modular, to the typical sectional benchwork kind. They all served a purpose, they all ran trains, they all taught me something.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg12eg79-wzunEwJfSwIfA3ZNGYHSPrYVlzJhgXdYJyg_GYMyOeovhIKFPPd_c3Fph5uJs58JQ3UBKK8qCClfShFcK7hpY_eEpP4pLqYLKyBIV2VwIyxhRcM9zYAx_1e_3eHHMqap4Jag/s1600/4x8+layout.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg12eg79-wzunEwJfSwIfA3ZNGYHSPrYVlzJhgXdYJyg_GYMyOeovhIKFPPd_c3Fph5uJs58JQ3UBKK8qCClfShFcK7hpY_eEpP4pLqYLKyBIV2VwIyxhRcM9zYAx_1e_3eHHMqap4Jag/s1600/4x8+layout.bmp" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4'x8' model train layout</td></tr>
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If its the table top way your going all you need to do is support the plywood with enough 2x4's to keep it from sagging or to be able to support you if you need to get up there and fix something in the center. I would use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. Slap this thing together with some screws and get to town laying track and running trains.<br />
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Benchwork needs a bit more planning. A detailed track plan should also be in hand before designing your benchwork. Hey you need to know which way the rails are going first. Model train layout height and depth need to be considered before building. Realize the limitation of your reach no more than 36" deep and keep the height around 42". Model train layouts look the best closer to eye level but are harder to work on the higher they get. Make the sections of your benchwork a reasonable size 4' or 8' long since you are probably buying 8' lumber and you may have to move one day. Plan on making frames of 1x4 with cross supports about every 12". For legs you can take two pieces of 1x4 or 1x3 and make L shape beams to transfer the weight of your model train layout to the floor. Then just screw or bolt the sections together in the shape/pattern you need for your overall plan. Using benchwork your track plan and layout shape doesn't need to be a square or rectangle, it can have all sorts of shapes to it. Quick Tip - Predrilling your holes with a pilot bit will stop the 1x3,4's from splitting.<br />
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Benchwork has an open frame which can allow you to put a flat surface on it when needed or easily attach vertical "T"supports for scenery or for subroadbed. A lot of guys are using extruded foam insulation sheets to handle all the subroadbed as well as its supports, but plywood is the old standby. It's all preference but those are the two main different mindsets of building subroadbed.. Using the open grid work style benchwork you have the most options and flexibility for your model train layout.<br />
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<br /><a href="http://15d998166r9x8l37t3lnx1v9f8.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_top"></a>Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-19362830303538667632012-01-12T13:00:00.000-05:002012-11-09T14:10:54.665-05:00Model Train Layout Standard Wiring<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Nowadays there is an option to wire your HO or N scale model train layout for standard DC or DCC (digital command control) or some sort of combo deal. Our focus for now is Standard DC wiring from a beginner to novice level. By the way these concepts holds true for all scales AC or DC. Standard DC is how everyone starts out running trains. You need a transformer or powerpak that provides the proper power for your model train scale, wired directly to the track. The transformer has a knob or lever that you move to increase train speed (its really increasing the voltage to the track). This is the traditional way to run trains, and is a great part of the foundation of the hobby. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYFg5ZDtSAxKKKPJFQjWDBaoRJXVR8_qT3MABRUhsQ1PlRCj64HlY7muy04aaVjNsTyMDUW5AiVEftS3WmvspWRuZJHWAN6dheaMkkP293bX6S1p4UpOEgYskhFYNToWLGmGJlo9lauY/s1600/model+railroad+layout+transformer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYFg5ZDtSAxKKKPJFQjWDBaoRJXVR8_qT3MABRUhsQ1PlRCj64HlY7muy04aaVjNsTyMDUW5AiVEftS3WmvspWRuZJHWAN6dheaMkkP293bX6S1p4UpOEgYskhFYNToWLGmGJlo9lauY/s200/model+railroad+layout+transformer.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Model Train Layout Transformer</td></tr>
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If you are mounting your track permanently to a piece of wood (loop around the xmas tree) or any model train layout (as in its not in pieces directly on the rug) you really should be soldering all the rail joints. With that in mind if you have a simple 4'x8' type layout then you need at least 2 locations where you need to connect the transformer to each loop of track. Lets say one on the near side and one on the far side. This will help keep the voltage constant all the way around and help with either dirty or cheap locomotives and/or dirty track. Dirty = less conductive. <br />
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If you have a larger layout then a 4'x8', then I would drop leads down every 6'-8' of track. Run "bus" or "common" power wires all the way around below each loop of track and connect the power "feeders" or "drops" to your common wires. You do need to pay attention to the gage wire you are using. For HO & N scale 18 gauge is a minimum for the common wires 24 gauge for the drops. If you have multiple main lines then you need a new set of common wires for each so that you can have separate control of each line. Please don't confuse power drops between main lines...wow that can be time consuming to figure out later. Its not a bad idea to use color codeing or wire markers or tags on your wires to help identify them. When you are crawling around under your model train layout in the dark some time in the future trying to fix something they come in handy. <br />
That will cover you if you are simply running a few independent loops on a simple layout. If your loops have interconnecting switch tracks you need to make sure you put isolating (non conductive) rail joiners between the switch tracks so the independent lines don't short together. Also the same goes if you want to control a turn out independently from the main line. You need to add Insulated rail joiners at the exact point where you want that separate control to start. You may want to store a locomotive on that turn out and simply shut the power off to just that section using a toggle switch. Once the turnout is isolated from the main line you can wire it in the same fashion as described above but don't connect it directly to the main line common wires. Wire it back to the transformer independently and before attaching it install a toggle switch in line to one of the wires. Toggle on it connects that turn out to power. Toggle off no power to that turn out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB3b7GduMdovNrMBsHZBKZprWByixKJZT1DANN6tobYjSnsdEL4fyXDMUPIyEGFgHQuyeRND-Sq6j6Kfry7xsp9IIy5u774ojclPlHawEiPhqKfT2KWRF0ibbitpx8xMJkk9KYZ4GNdps/s1600/285_control_panel_left.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="171" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB3b7GduMdovNrMBsHZBKZprWByixKJZT1DANN6tobYjSnsdEL4fyXDMUPIyEGFgHQuyeRND-Sq6j6Kfry7xsp9IIy5u774ojclPlHawEiPhqKfT2KWRF0ibbitpx8xMJkk9KYZ4GNdps/s200/285_control_panel_left.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">model train layout control panel</td></tr>
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If you have a mess of turn outs and toggles then you need to build yourself a control panel so you can neatly display the switches and keep the wiring straight. This can be rather simple or complex as you see in the pic to the right. A control panel brings things to another level and building one is a real art and far beyond the scope of this article.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YqeynNJZUXlkNHDRfxeU0s2M3qTCI7eelbX8pTsSkAkDFxjPNw2dIMP5IGCvbkXsTiSzpNpSozWKrjcCKECqAVAfcrOrEivk3rX_9ttjJcaBUQYtqbzJl5MxlNCcDmFJZGgtMYtUVBI/s1600/terminal+block.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YqeynNJZUXlkNHDRfxeU0s2M3qTCI7eelbX8pTsSkAkDFxjPNw2dIMP5IGCvbkXsTiSzpNpSozWKrjcCKECqAVAfcrOrEivk3rX_9ttjJcaBUQYtqbzJl5MxlNCcDmFJZGgtMYtUVBI/s200/terminal+block.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">terminal block</td></tr>
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For larger layouts Some will say for every power drop you should use a terminal block. I prefer to just skin back the common wires (not cut them) and solder the power drops right in. Soldering takes any connector failure off the table years down the road. You can then use some electrical tape around the solder joint and staple them up tight. Introducing some terminal blocks here an there is not a bad idea for future trouble shooting since with a turn of a screw you can isolate a section from the rest and just search out the problem there, but don't go crazy. <br />
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The great thing about Standard DC wiring is how much it teaches someone fresh to the hobby about electronics and working with different tools. What we discussed here will be enough to get a beginning to novice model train layout up and running. As you add more turn outs or sidings, or yards, or loops you take the basic info laid out in this article and apply it. If you want sections of the main line to be turned on and off well use the concepts outlined for turn out toggle switches. More interconnecting loops, don't forget your isolating rail joiners.<br />
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Till next time have fun running some trains!<br />
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Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-79119737922631726912012-01-09T08:30:00.000-05:002012-11-19T14:33:44.350-05:00How to Cut Model Railroad Track part 2OK, so many of you sent in emails asking about the more advanced...quicker techniques for cutting model railroad track so here it goes. What we discuss here can also be used for cutting already installed track on your model train layout. You can review the first part of this discussion by clicking <a href="http://www.modeltrainsandthings.blogspot.com/2012/01/cutting-model-railroad-track.html" target="_blank">here</a>. These tips are for more advanced track layers and you need to use the proper eye protection.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGqTcbrPSlZPhS2xhwLg_zUDm9rmJ09UMXIe6gU51uw87wpmCdv53k7bhsUgOYE3ohXa4B4KJe_4LOx7Y8H5sc1TXSsrtkWXIcpehGtLOm3v0sdviKpFrz0kZvYyNBfhgMhYkwuUoEkB4/s1600/diagonal+cutters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="cssfloat: right; height: 186px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; width: 160px;"><img border="0" height="200" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGqTcbrPSlZPhS2xhwLg_zUDm9rmJ09UMXIe6gU51uw87wpmCdv53k7bhsUgOYE3ohXa4B4KJe_4LOx7Y8H5sc1TXSsrtkWXIcpehGtLOm3v0sdviKpFrz0kZvYyNBfhgMhYkwuUoEkB4/s200/diagonal+cutters.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">any old pair of diagonal pliers</td></tr>
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I have seen many guys just grab any old pair of diagonal pliers and just go to town cutting the solid rail, ho or n, flex track. Then they have to spend hours cleaning up their mess when they realize they can't get the rail joiners on or if they do the cuts were so crooked there is too much of a gap between rails. If your laughing right now that's because you were just caught red handed as one of those " I love to file all day long" types. You could use a sharp pair and pay attention to what you are doing and not do a bad job. However, you are always going to have to break out the files and clean up a bit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjekFitOzwGYTNILidEZ1qKmIxVGj5OVt2-fxVILk4AVFbibP-ydmlKjmob08TKMxliJ2wtT2n8GZcAzGlQzzWvjpcrbjhwF1WGNg99krPHomoNaOH_dRX9iOgAd0aKxBEp8dsMJxU0XCo/s1600/rail+cutting+pliers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjekFitOzwGYTNILidEZ1qKmIxVGj5OVt2-fxVILk4AVFbibP-ydmlKjmob08TKMxliJ2wtT2n8GZcAzGlQzzWvjpcrbjhwF1WGNg99krPHomoNaOH_dRX9iOgAd0aKxBEp8dsMJxU0XCo/s200/rail+cutting+pliers.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">track cutting pliers</td></tr>
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I have a few friends that swear by a special pair of Cutters designed to cut HO and N scale track. Xuron makes a pair, if you search for track cutting pliers you will find them out there. Their description always says something like "clean cut every time". My sources tell me they give a cleaner cut then the old regular cutters at least while they are sharp, but that they still have to hit some cuts with a file here and there.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dremel Flex Shaft</td></tr>
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My favorite technique involves a <a href="http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=13" target="_blank">Dremel</a>, the cut off wheel bit, the largest fiber cut off wheel you can buy, and the snake or <a href="http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=225-01" target="_blank">flex shaft</a> attachment. If you use a dremel without the flex shaft then the body of the tool gets in the way and you end up with crooked cuts every time...which you cold then use the dremel cut off wheel like a sanding disc and square the cut up. That will leave one heck of a bur. You then have to follow up with a file to get rid of the burs. I always use the flex shaft. the body of the flex shaft unit that holds the cut off wheel is much thinner and if you are using a large cut off wheel you can get a near straight cut every time. Straight cuts lead to less filing. However, dremels are pricey and you have to wear some goggles to protect the eyes while cutting so there is more to consider then just the quick snip of a pair of cutting pliers.<br />
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Weather you use the jig and saw method or the more advanced techniques discussed above the more track you cut the better at it you will become. I know some track work can be tedious but send some extra time now while you are installing the track to avoid time consuming and discouraging problems later.<br />
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Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-32093833372381206962012-01-06T21:48:00.000-05:002012-11-19T14:33:31.313-05:00How to Cut Model Railroad Track <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeq5UEfwK2Ja9XlteWrlWdbpyLwgwid56IyshaqZmfd1L0mZpeNBq0_qFm-El2E-vW9mfDMlzihKo2d_-0ok6zm7x3aO1h2mHfFJ9ei-V1AhIaprjxQFNGsv2IYq2BzKzp-nUanHxiEE/s1600/flex+track.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeq5UEfwK2Ja9XlteWrlWdbpyLwgwid56IyshaqZmfd1L0mZpeNBq0_qFm-El2E-vW9mfDMlzihKo2d_-0ok6zm7x3aO1h2mHfFJ9ei-V1AhIaprjxQFNGsv2IYq2BzKzp-nUanHxiEE/s1600/flex+track.bmp" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Model RailroadFlex Track</td></tr>
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Most folks in the Ho and N scale world use <a href="http://www.atlasrr.com/superflex.htm" target="_blank">flex track</a> on their layouts. When laying track you often need to cut your 36” flex track to a shorter length. Some Concepts explained here also work for <a href="http://www.gargraves.com/flextrack.html" target="_blank">"Gargraves"</a> type flex track for o gauge as well. Depending on the gauge and weather or not your track is already installed on your layout your technique has to vary. Solid rail, tubular rail, wood ties, plastic ties it doesn’t matter the name of the game is patients. The biggest problem you may run into is ending up with a damaged rail or ties after you cut it. This hobby is expensive enough…no need to waste lengths of track. Make sure to use proper safety techniques including wearing eye protection when using all tools. Ooh and make sure you have a good set of small metal files because you’re going to need them.<br />
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Let’s examine the wooden Jig/metal cutting hacksaw approach to cutting track. I learned this from an old timer in the hobby. This is not the fastest way to cut track, however it’s the safest and most suggested for beginners.<br />
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First you have to make yourself a jig. This jig will hold the track firmly and safely in place minimizing any damage to the rails and your fingers. Take a length of wood that the track can sit on and be fully supported. Attach that to your table or workbench, which will be your cutting surface. For O gauge or smaller track you can then grab a piece of 2x4, a foot or so in length. Cut, lengthwise, with a wide saw blade or use a router grooves in the wood so that you can invert your jig and place it on top of the track and have the rails fit into those groves. Make them deep enough so the jig when inverted will sit flat on your ties. You want the grooves tight and centered in the wood. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#400 super saw</td></tr>
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Mark the length of track where you need to cut it. Press firmly down with your jig onto the track making sure the grooves lay on the rails properly. Slide the jig up to the mark. Use a thin metal cutting saw such as a hack saw or small hobby saw and slowly draw the saw over your rails using the jig as a guide. If you take your time you will do the least amount of damage to the rails. If you try to cut with too much force or too fast you can damage the rail. When you’re done you may need to take a small file to the edge of the rail to remove any leftover burs.</div>
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If you need to cut one rail a different length then the other due to a curve or special instillation then slide the jig up the rail to the longest mark and cut just that rail. Then slide it down to the shorter marks and cut them.</div>
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If the track you want to cut is already installed on your layout the jig described above will only work if it is a perfectly straight section. If it is and you have all the clearance needed for the jig and your saw go for it. Otherwise you will need a different strategy. <br />
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There are a few more advanced track cutting techniques that are far less time consuming which I will discuss in another upcoming article. Stay Tuned!<br />
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See part 2 of this article <a href="http://www.modeltrainsandthings.blogspot.com/2012/01/cutting-model-railroad-track-part-2.html" target="_blank">HERE.</a><br />
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<a href="http://15d998166r9x8l37t3lnx1v9f8.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_blank"></a>Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-70661910640220696302011-12-30T10:44:00.000-05:002012-01-05T10:59:29.120-05:00BLOGS ... WHAT A SCAMSince this is my first blog experience, I did some research into other blogs out there. What topics people were writing about, which topics became popular, formats, layouts, etc. Most blogs I came across were scams. They contained articles that gave you very little actual information...just words on a page...that were nothing more than Internet search grabbers. They would mention a topic, hit a few key words, and then in the most vague way talk about the topic just to drive traffic to their blog site so you could see the advertising and make the blogger money. Most blogs are a scam. Period!<br />
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I was looking for help on a model railroad topic. In fact I wrote an article about it here on my blog so that others in the future with the same issue may find some real help. It had to do with failing axle gears on a proto 2000 ho scale locomotive. It's a pretty specific issue to need help with. Not being in the model railroad business, just a hobbyist, I didn't know there was a problem years ago with these gears (preblog movement). So I missed the boat I guess with the online help. I found very little from any blogger or forum about the topic. I did, however, read or view a lot of blogs along the way that sucked me in via my Internet search for my gear problem that turned out to be such bogus BS. There are whole websites dedicated to ranking, listing, & searching blogs. All they really seem to be doing is running an advertising network or "ring". They have ads on their site pointing you to blogs that have advertising on their pages. Everyone hoping that you will click a dumb ad on their blog page. Furthermore I found blogs and sites dedicated to the art of blogging and how to drive traffic to your advertisements..or ..a ..I mean blog articles.<br />
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Sure there must be real people blogging about real things, hey your reading this aren't you? I'm a realist, not a whole lot of people are going to read my blog since I am not blogging about blogging (well i guess this article does) or about some over privileged celebrity's couchie flash last night at some club. I'm just putting some thoughts down on paper and if along the way a few people are either entertained or find an article useful then its a bonus.<br />
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Notice I wasn't vague, nor did I attempt to sell you something...ooh and as of now anyway you won't find any ads on this blog! I repeat most blogs are a scam.<br />
<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-37470109026129666292011-12-21T13:45:00.001-05:002012-11-09T14:12:25.440-05:00Proto 2000 Axle Gear Problem FixIts been years a decade or so since I had my Proto 2000, Fa2, Locomotive out of the box and frankly I had no idea there was a major issue with their axle gears. I grabbed a new in box Fa unit via eBay for real cheap so I had a matched a-b-a set. When it arrived one of the wheels was loose in the package and after further review a few were very loose on their axle gear (you could turn one wheel by hand not affecting any others) That looseness would never allow the locomotive to go anywhere pulling a load behind it. That's when I discovered after a few minutes of Internet research there was a pattern of failed axle gears in these units as well as the GP-7+'s. (proto 2000 has been for some time now a part of Walthers and they stopped warrentying the gears long ago but they are cheap 6-10 bucks). <br />
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Well there is an easy fix. Almost anyone can do it. First purchase an Athearn axle gear replacement set. They will drop right in as direct replacements for your lifelike proto 2000 FA or GP7+ units. Part number on the axle gear set is ATH-60024. <br />
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The Package may say SD40 on it as well but don't get scared these things are right for your proto 2000. They come 6 to a package you need 1 per axle change them all if you have any issues.<br />
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When you have your new parts flip the locomotive over and carefully work off the plastic clip on the center of the truck between the wheels with a small flat head screwdriver. That clip keeps the axles from just falling out if you turn the loco right side up and it keeps both haves of the truck together.<br />
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Take out the axle you want to work on and pull off each wheel from the gear. If the gear is bad this is fairly easy to do by hand no tools needed to pry. These gears tended to crack which gave the axle that is just pressed into it too much freedom to turn on its own. <br />
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Open a pair of pliers or channel locks very wide. The wider the pliers the more vertical (up and down instead of on an angle) the pressing action will be. Press on one wheel and axle into the gear. Then repeat for the other wheel. (you could also use a bench vise) You should not be able to do this by hand easily at all because of the new tight fit the replacement gear has. You can grasp the axle gear with the groves in the pliers and hold it while working the wheel back out slightly if you end up pressing them in too far (which you probably will do). Eventually you need to check the width of the wheels with a NMRA track and wheel gauge so you know you have them spaced properly. Make sure the gear is centered between the wheels. <br />
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Once gauged properly your done- lay it back into the truck where it came from. It may take a second or two to line up the axle bushings properly before it drops in. Repeat for all of the axles..loose or not your their anyway. <br />
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One of the few videos I found online showing you this replacement <a href="http://youtu.be/O6rICPsxQbY">http://youtu.be/O6rICPsxQbY</a><br />
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<br />Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5774395301385885603.post-89388968620675608572011-12-05T22:12:00.001-05:002012-11-09T14:12:09.591-05:00Standard Train control instead of DCCI have decided that my ho train layout will be a Standard Control or DC layout instead of a DCC digital command and control layout. In other words I am going to run trains like we all have forever, like you did at Christmas time around the tree. Track, Train, Transformer (power pack). DCC requires a more expensive locomotive because of the extra electronics needed to be digitally controlled. However, you can buy an expensive add on component to include all sorts of sounds that would be appropriate for the loco. You would also have to toss out all of your old, in need of attention, locomotives because the work to get them running perfectly then installing a retokit for all the new age electronics is too much work. Only the older high end locos would be worth it.<br />
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I will still be able to run all of my locomotives. I will buy new locomotives that are DCC ready and add the sound module only, <a href="http://www.modelrec.com/">MRC </a> makes one that works with dc and is a direct plug in, and either buy the optional wireless transmitter or buy an MRC "black box" <br />
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and wire that to the layout so I can access the sound board and play the tunes. All while still running a standard DC layout.<br />
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I like pushing the lever on the power pack to get more speed rather then turning a little dial or punching in some number on a keypad...that's not running trains. I know how to wire a double pole double throw switch, I can wire blocks into the layout (which most dcc guys put on their layout anyway helps with trouble shooting a short). I love the sound effects the DCC world brings but I think I have unlocked a way to get the sounds while running a standard DC layout (at least with newer dcc ready locomotives). For me it will be a standard dc controlled ho train layout or bust! That may make me old news as far as ho train layouts these days but sometimes there really is something to be said about tradition.<br />
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.PS try to find out details and compare the top 3 or 4 DCC systems in case you were thinking about going that way?...not easy everyone sells "their" brand of unit and "theirs" is the best. You have to go on reading for hours on blogs and forums to find out real details and that is super subjective to the writer's point of view.<br />
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<br /><a href="http://15d998166r9x8l37t3lnx1v9f8.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_blank"></a>Pat Guerrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07703458190055821995noreply@blogger.com